I really like 300TD wagons and especially the self leveling rear end feature WHEN it is working properly. It is great to have that function when you throw a bunch of weight in the back. Unfortunately, due to the age and mileage on these cars very few rear suspensions are working as new. Yes, they may be working but..... over 80 percent of the wagons I see are sagging in the back (which is not attractive) and even though the accumulators and struts are working in most you get a mushy rear end feel when driving the car aggressively. The combination of a worn or internally leaking pump, worn and out of adjustment leveling valve, and worn struts together can lead to the symptoms described above. Yes changing fluid can improve performance and changing the accumulators (not too expensive) can get rid of the buck-board ride - BUT if you want that factory new feel back prepare to open your wallet big time.
Of course I would prefer to restore to the factory original but in many cases that does not resonate with economic reality. So recently I set out to convert my 300TD wagon to standard springs and shocks ( just to see if I could obtain acceptable performance). It took some testing with a few different combinations of springs and shocks to get the right stance and ride - but I am very pleased with the results. I know that ride and handling are often a personal preference but my wagon now handles and rides better than any wagon I have ever driven with hydraulic suspension - and I have driven a lot of them! The one drawback is lack of self leveling. If you plan to drive your wagon a lot with real heavy loads in the back then I would recommend you retain and repair the original suspension.
I am now pleased to offer a complete conversion kit using replacement springs, shims, and shocks that are not original to the 123 300TD wagon. The springs are stiffer and bigger in diameter than 123 springs and fit perfectly without any modification. I include thicker rubber spring pads to make the ride height level or just slightly above the front. The shocks are heavy duty Bilsteins (not wagon) that require some special spacers and instructions to install (which I include in this kit). And finally I include a new set of sway bar links since these are often worn and easily replaced during the conversion.
TIME SAVING OPTION AVAILABLE: To complete this conversion you MUST remove the hydraulic pump from your engine and cover the hole in the head with a fabricated cover plate. You can make your own as suggested in the instructions or if you don't have the tools and materials handy you can purchase the kit I have fabricated from aluminum plate. CLICK HERE to read more.
WARNING - READ CAREFULLY BEFORE ORDERING! This is not a beginner do-it-yourselfer job. Because of that - I DO NOT include ANY instructions on removing and replacing the springs. That must be done on a car lift with the proper spring compressor and by a professional if need be. These replacement heavier springs can not be installed safety without the correct compression tools. I do include some TIPS on removing the old hydraulic equipment along with pictorial instructions for installing the spacers on the replacement heavy duty shocks. If you understand these warnings and limited instructions then you are welcome to proceed with ordering this conversion kit. Before we ship you will receive an email asking that you verify you understand what is involved in replacement. If you want to just send us a verification email after placing your order so much the better. We want to be sure you know what you are getting into so you will be pleased with your purchase.
PLEASE NOTE: This is a special order item. Please expect 3 to 5 days before we ship. If you are ordering other items with this kit that you need sooner than that then we recommend a separate checkout for this item. Thanks.
Here is what one of our recent customers said about his conversion:
I did the rear suspension conversion on my 1983 300TD with your kit. I was
reluctant to give up on the OEM system and was scared by the price and the
warning about the difficulty of the swap.
The kit is overly comprehensive. It had all the other parts I might have wanted and
some I did not need at this time, but I have saved them for if the stock
links do break later on etc.
The installation is a bit tricky. I did it by myself and was not able to
use my lift so I did it on jack stands. People who have done suspension
work and brake work before and are competent should not be afraid. Your
directions are adequate for any experienced person to get the job done. You
could use a better picture on the order of the stack on the strut top but I
figured it out since there is only one way that it will really work.
I did not have coil spring compressors and tried to use strut-spring style
compressors. They will not work. I stripped one trying to make them work. I
rented a coil style compressor at the local parts store and was able to put
the springs in with only a little frustration.
I drove the car with just the new struts and then with new struts and
springs. This set-up is brilliant. The struts with the old springs were an
improvement over my bucking board, but were under sprung badly, rode rough
and sagged. With the new springs in place, it rides as well or better than
a car with working pneumatic suspension. It soaks up small and large bumps
without any fuss and is smooth and steady at speed. It was easily worth
both the time and the money.
Thanks for a first rate product!
Bryan