This is the tool I love to use when troubleshooting engine operating temperature problems. You can stand back and aim the beam right on a spot on the radiator or engine to get an exact temperature reading. This can indicate whether or not your radiator is plugged and confirm if your temperature gauge is accurate or not.
If you are running SVO it can give you accurate readings of the temperature of your oil - both during filtering and coming out of your boost heater.
Features:
Good Used BEHR German fan clutch replacement for 113,111, 108 and 109 chassis gas engines from 1968 to 1973, all 114 and 115 gas and diesel, all 123 gas and diesel engines 1977 to 1983 and 1981 to 1983 126 300SD. PLEASE NOTE: This clutch is for engines that have the 5 blade aluminum metal fans. If you have the newer multi-blade nylon fan then you will need a different type. This clutch lists new for $272.00. If your fan clutch is loose, making noise, or your engine is overheating this is your chance to replace it for a very good price. We also carry these new for $178.00
I have aluminum fan blades used if you need that also. Email for price.
PLEASE NOTE: This will not fit 107, 116, or 126 V8 gas engines.
This steering wheel is not perfect but it is above average. No major damage on the rim but there are a few very fine cracks right where the center bar meets the outer ring. Very good horn ring and horn pad (no cracks in the pad cover).
Has 5 bolt hole pattern to attach to steering column. Fits 1969 to 1972 models 280SL 280SE 280SEL 280SEC and 300SEL.
This lug wrench came with most models from the mid 60s to the late 70's that used the standard hubcaps. The end has a curved tip to allow you to pry the hubcap off.
NEW LOCTITE PRODUCT - AUGUST PROMO! If you have read very many of my manuals and instructions you already know how much I detest Silicone Gasket Sealant. I know there are places for silicone (ie bath tub caulking, etc), but it should not be used on internal combustion engines!
FITS THE FOLLOWING: 108, 109, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123, and 126 (up to 1985). Fits all sedans and coupes from these chassis 1965 to 1985. Includes one Genuine OEM Mercedes front rubber seal. No instructions included.
Please note: You only need to open the sunroof to change this seal. It can be a little tricky to get the new seal in the groove. No instructions included with this seal. It is intended for those who have already done the job. If you need instructions then I recommend you purchase our complete seal kit.
Applies to all Mercedes, PON FIN Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. Here is a kit you will love to have around the shop. If you don't like using those poor quality US hose clamps (the kind that cut into the hose) then here is a chance to have spare quality (no nick) hose clamps for those fuel and coolant related repairs. Kit comes with large size hose clamp. Hose clamp size is 32-50/9.
This is one cleverly designed tool. Could not have done it better myself. I actually use to make a couple different types before I found this one. If you have ever tried to remove a radiator hose corroded to an alumium housing you know what I am talking about and you will love this tool. Great when changing radiator hoses, especially the short hose. 8 inches in length.
It will get those stuck radiator hoses loose and off in seconds...
This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.
Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.
This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.
Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.
If you work around your Mercedes much this is a great tool to have. The quality is exceptional for the price. It will reset to measure in both inches and millimeters. For a limited time I will even include a spare button battery at no extra cost.
If you are going to test and tune your diesel fuel injectors this is a must have tool! It is the best way to determine the current thickness of the pressure adjusting shim washer in each injector and to help choose the proper replacement. We are committed to helping you service and overhaul this critical maintenance component.
It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.
Almost all Mercedes gas and diesel engines from the late 50's up to the early 90's used pressed in steel pins to hold the timing chain guide rails in position (inside the engine block). To easily remove these you can use a slide hammer IF the engine is out of the car!!! In the real world of old cars, timing chain guide rails often have to be replaced with the engine in the car! There is no room between the front of the engine and the radiator to get any type of slide hammer or long puller tool to work.