108/109

These are the zip ties we have all been looking for. They have a super sticky tape of the foot of the tie so you can stick them anywhere in your engine compartment without having to drill a hole in the inner fender panel. (NOTE: Be sure to thoroughly clean the surface BEFORE installing). The other neat thing is that these zip ties can be loosened back up (just like the factory type) to remove the wire bundle or anything else you need to secure. Sold in packs of 6. You will love these!

This is the tool I love to use when troubleshooting engine operating temperature problems. You can stand back and aim the beam right on a spot on the radiator or engine to get an exact temperature reading. This can indicate whether or not your radiator is plugged and confirm if your temperature gauge is accurate or not.

If you are running SVO it can give you accurate readings of the temperature of your oil - both during filtering and coming out of your boost heater.

Features:

Good Used BEHR German fan clutch replacement for 113,111, 108 and 109 chassis gas engines from 1968 to 1973, all 114 and 115 gas and diesel, all 123 gas and diesel engines 1977 to 1983 and 1981 to 1983 126 300SD. PLEASE NOTE: This clutch is for engines that have the 5 blade aluminum metal fans. If you have the newer multi-blade nylon fan then you will need a different type. This clutch lists new for $272.00. If your fan clutch is loose, making noise, or your engine is overheating this is your chance to replace it for a very good price. We also carry these new for $178.00

I have aluminum fan blades used if you need that also. Email for price.

PLEASE NOTE: This will not fit 107, 116, or 126 V8 gas engines.

This steering wheel is not perfect but it is above average. No major damage on the rim but there are a few very fine cracks right where the center bar meets the outer ring. Very good horn ring and horn pad (no cracks in the pad cover).

Has 5 bolt hole pattern to attach to steering column. Fits 1969 to 1972 models 280SL 280SE 280SEL 280SEC and 300SEL.

This lug wrench came with most models from the mid 60s to the late 70's that used the standard hubcaps. The end has a curved tip to allow you to pry the hubcap off.

NEW LOCTITE PRODUCT - AUGUST PROMO! If you have read very many of my manuals and instructions you already know how much I detest Silicone Gasket Sealant. I know there are places for silicone (ie bath tub caulking, etc), but it should not be used on internal combustion engines!

FITS THE FOLLOWING: 108, 109, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123, and 126 (up to 1985). Fits all sedans and coupes from these chassis 1965 to 1985. Includes one Genuine OEM Mercedes front rubber seal. No instructions included.

Please note: You only need to open the  sunroof to change this seal. It can be a little tricky to get the new seal in the groove. No instructions included with this seal. It is intended for those who have already done the job. If you need instructions then I recommend you purchase our complete seal kit.

FITS THE FOLLOWING: 108, 109, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123, and 126 (up to 1985). Fits all sedans and coupes from these chassis 1965 to 1985. Includes one quality german aftermarket rear rubber seal. No instructions included.

Applies to all Mercedes, PON FIN Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. Here is a kit you will love to have around the shop. If you don't like using those poor quality US hose clamps (the kind that cut into the hose) then here is a chance to have spare quality (no nick) hose clamps for those fuel and coolant related repairs. Kit comes with  large size hose clamp. Hose clamp size is 32-50/9.

Applies to all Mercedes, PON FIN Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. Here is a kit you will love to have around the shop. If you don't like using those poor quality US hose clamps (the kind that cut into the hose) then here is a chance to have spare quality (no nick) hose clamps for those fuel and coolant related repairs. Kit comes with 10 medium size hose clamp. Hose clamp size is 16-27/9.

Great to carry in trunk for emergencies. Nice case. No instructions included with this kit. Bulbs are applicable to most models from the early 70's to late 80's.

This kit includes:

This bulb is a single element bulb that is used in the brake light, rear turn signal and your rear back up lens. It's a very universal bulb. Fits mid 60s to 90s Mercedes.

These bulbs are 5 watts and they fit a number of applications for instance in your instrument cluster. Check to see how many you need.

These bulbs dont neccessary fit all models. This bulb is 1 5/8 inch long. Some applications require smaller bulbs, please measure your bulb before ordering this 6 pak.

This is a set of 6 front turn signal light bulbs. Fits early 70s to mid 90s Mercedes.

This is a 3 piece scribe and pick tool set - great for marking aluminum and steel.

Heat shrink tubing is very handing to have if you are doing any wire connections or splicing. This tubing can go over the splice or solder joint and when heat is applied from a heat gun it will shrink right down tight to the joint and protect it from shorts and corrosion.

This circuit tester has a long 7 inch point to get into hard to reach places. Accordion cord extends up to 12 feet! Wow!

This is a set of metric nut drivers. It come in 7 different handy sizes and is even color coded. Sizes include 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11mm.

Near Mint set of tailights for 1970 to 1973 108 and 108 sedans. Comes with desireable metal (not plastic) style bulb holders, lenses with no cracking, chipping or crazing and beautiful chrome rings with no fading or pitting. If you are looking for the best for your 3.5, 4.5, or 6.3 these are it. Just about the nicest set of original taillights I have come across.

If you plan to change coolant hoses this is a must have labor saving tool. This is one cleverly designed tool. Could not have done it better myself. I actually use to make a couple different types before I found this one. If you have ever tried to remove a radiator hose corroded to an aluminum housing you know what I am talking about and you will love this tool. Great when changing radiator hoses, especially the short hose. 8 inches in length.

It will get those stuck radiator hoses loose and off in seconds...

I like this - permanent - threadlocker because it is super strong but can still be removed with a heavy handed breaker bar. This is a very large bottle for the price and is a must have for Mercedes diesel owners. I use it anytime I am doing major repair work on an engine or transmission. Great for front crank bolt, cam bolt, torque converter bolts, injection pump mounting nuts, front engine accessories, brake caliper bolts, front suspension, etc. Anything that you can just not afford to come loose.

This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.

Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.

This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.

Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.

If you work around your Mercedes much this is a great tool to have. The quality is exceptional for the price. It will reset to measure in both inches and millimeters. For a limited time I will even include a spare button battery at no extra cost.

If you are going to test and tune your diesel fuel injectors this is a must have tool! It is the best way to determine the current thickness of the pressure adjusting shim washer in each injector and to help choose the proper replacement. We are committed to helping you service and overhaul this critical maintenance component.

Here is an inexpensive set of cleaning brushes that really get down in the crevices. The plastic one is good for exterior cleaning around the window and body trim. The brass is good for cleaning engine parts you don't want to scratech. The steel one is excellent if you are doing some rust repair.

If you are going to work on your diesel fuel injectors you are going to need a torque wrench. If you are going to tighten your alloy wheel lug bolts properly you should use a torque wrench. In fact if you do your own work you should have a 1/2 inch clicker torque wrench in your tool box. I know why you don't have one. They tend to be expensive for the limited amount you might use one. Well, now you can get a quality one for a very good price. This is a special offer and we only have a limited number in stock.

It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.

 

For you 108 109 enthusiasts here is a lot of parts you will appreciate. All these parts came from late 1969 to 1973 108 and 109 sedans including 300SEL 3.5 4.5 and 6.3. These are sold as is in a lot as shown. Please check the picture carefully to see what you are getting. All lens some some minor crazing - no major breaks - but not perfect. Some good reflectors and housings.

Almost all Mercedes gas and diesel engines from the late 50's up to the early 90's used pressed in steel pins to hold the timing chain guide rails in position (inside the engine block). To easily remove these you can use a slide hammer IF the engine is out of the car!!! In the real world of old cars, timing chain guide rails often have to be replaced with the engine in the car! There is no room between the front of the engine and the radiator to get any type of slide hammer or long puller tool to work.

GARAGE SALE ITEM! Motor Mount Kit made by Meistersatz. Fits only Early 108 and 111 Chassis up to 1967. This kit includes mounts and hardware for both sides.