113, New Parts Kits and Manuals

• Type M 130 - 6 cylinder Fuel Injected Gasoline Engine
• Injection Engine
• Engine spare parts list
• Edition B
• Production date March 1971
• 200 pages

COVERS ALL ENGINE PARTS WITH MERCEDES PARTS NUMBERS. GOOD USED CLEAN ORIGINAL CONDITION

I have used a LOT of different kinds of grease in my lifetime - but this is my favorite. It has a high molybdenum and grahite content and does not dry out over time. It also has a great resistance to water and moisture deterioration. Just the right consistency - not too thick so it can get into tight places - not too thin so it stays in place.

On the body I use it in door check straps, window gears and mechanisms, seat tracks, door latch assemblies, sunroof cables and gears, hood and trunk hinges and any other metal to metal wear location. On suspension and chassis I use it on wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods, u-joints, backing plates and more.

This 14 oz can is usually more than enough to service most Mercedes Benz. A must have in your tool box!

FITS THE FOLLOWING: all 107, 108, 109, 111, 113, 114, 115, 116, 123 and 126 chassis from 1969 to 1991. Four pads included for both sides of rear axle. Tired of sqweeking or squealing or hard brake pedal feel? These are just amazing brake pads. Manufactured by Meyle in Germany these have high quality anti-squeal plates built into the back side of each pad and are scorched at the factory for more driving comfort. What does scorched mean? Let  me explain:

This is a must have for any owner of an older Mercedes gas engine model. This applies to all 4, 6 and 8 cylinder from the mid 1950s to the mid 1980s. The manual covers prevention of thread damage and how to repair a totally destroyed spark plug hole. The thread chaser included with the manual with help clean up any minor damage and prevent major problems. Never force a spark plug into the threads and if a plug comes out hard the threads MUST be cleaned with a chaser before you reinstall a new plug.

These are the zip ties we have all been looking for. They have a super sticky tape of the foot of the tie so you can stick them anywhere in your engine compartment without having to drill a hole in the inner fender panel. (NOTE: Be sure to thoroughly clean the surface BEFORE installing). The other neat thing is that these zip ties can be loosened back up (just like the factory type) to remove the wire bundle or anything else you need to secure. Sold in packs of 6. You will love these!

This is the tool I love to use when troubleshooting engine operating temperature problems. You can stand back and aim the beam right on a spot on the radiator or engine to get an exact temperature reading. This can indicate whether or not your radiator is plugged and confirm if your temperature gauge is accurate or not.

If you are running SVO it can give you accurate readings of the temperature of your oil - both during filtering and coming out of your boost heater.

Features:

If you have read very many of my manuals and instructions you already know how much I detest Silicone Gasket Sealant. I know there are places for silicone (ie bath tub caulking, etc), but it should not be used on internal combustion engines!

Applies to all Mercedes, PON FIN Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. Here is a kit you will love to have around the shop. If you don't like using those poor quality US hose clamps (the kind that cut into the hose) then here is a chance to have spare quality (no nick) hose clamps for those fuel and coolant related repairs. Kit comes with  large size hose clamp. Hose clamp size is 32-50/9.

Applies to all Mercedes, PON FIN Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. Here is a kit you will love to have around the shop. If you don't like using those poor quality US hose clamps (the kind that cut into the hose) then here is a chance to have spare quality (no nick) hose clamps for those fuel and coolant related repairs. Kit comes with 10 medium size hose clamp. Hose clamp size is 16-27/9.

Great to carry in trunk for emergencies. Nice case. No instructions included with this kit. Bulbs are applicable to most models from the early 70's to late 80's.

This kit includes:

5 handy bulbs to carry in your trunk for emergencies.  2 single element for turn signal, brake light or backup lights. 2 small single element for tail light running lights (correct size and watts to prevent melting plastic). 1 twin element bulb for from marker / turn signal lens.

Fits almost all models from the early 1970s to the mid 1990s

This bulb is a single element bulb that is used in the brake light, rear turn signal and your rear back up lens. It's a very universal bulb. Fits mid 60s to 90s Mercedes.

These are correct Osram small diameter bulbs for your rear tail light. Use this bulb to prevent over heating of the lens. Comes in a 6 bulbs set.

This is a 3 piece scribe and pick tool set - great for marking aluminum and steel.

Heat shrink tubing is very handing to have if you are doing any wire connections or splicing. This tubing can go over the splice or solder joint and when heat is applied from a heat gun it will shrink right down tight to the joint and protect it from shorts and corrosion.

This circuit tester has a long 7 inch point to get into hard to reach places. Accordion cord extends up to 12 feet! Wow!

This is a set of metric nut drivers. It come in 7 different handy sizes and is even color coded. Sizes include 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11mm.

If you plan to change coolant hoses this is a must have labor saving tool. This is one cleverly designed tool. Could not have done it better myself. I actually use to make a couple different types before I found this one. If you have ever tried to remove a radiator hose corroded to an aluminum housing you know what I am talking about and you will love this tool. Great when changing radiator hoses, especially the short hose. 8 inches in length.

It will get those stuck radiator hoses loose and off in seconds...

I like this - permanent - threadlocker because it is super strong but can still be removed with a heavy handed breaker bar. This is a very large bottle for the price and is a must have for Mercedes diesel owners. I use it anytime I am doing major repair work on an engine or transmission. Great for front crank bolt, cam bolt, torque converter bolts, injection pump mounting nuts, front engine accessories, brake caliper bolts, front suspension, etc. Anything that you can just not afford to come loose.

This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.

Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.

This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.

Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.

If you work around your Mercedes much this is a great tool to have. The quality is exceptional for the price. It will reset to measure in both inches and millimeters. For a limited time I will even include a spare button battery at no extra cost.

If you are going to test and tune your diesel fuel injectors this is a must have tool! It is the best way to determine the current thickness of the pressure adjusting shim washer in each injector and to help choose the proper replacement. We are committed to helping you service and overhaul this critical maintenance component.

Here is an inexpensive set of cleaning brushes that really get down in the crevices. The plastic one is good for exterior cleaning around the window and body trim. The brass is good for cleaning engine parts you don't want to scratech. The steel one is excellent if you are doing some rust repair.

If you are going to work on your diesel fuel injectors you are going to need a torque wrench. If you are going to tighten your alloy wheel lug bolts properly you should use a torque wrench. In fact if you do your own work you should have a 1/2 inch clicker torque wrench in your tool box. I know why you don't have one. They tend to be expensive for the limited amount you might use one. Well, now you can get a quality one for a very good price. This is a special offer and we only have a limited number in stock.

It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.

 

Good used Bosch H4 headlight with flat face design. Only one. Does not include H4 bulb. If you are using these headlights you know how great they are!  May want to pick up a spare in case one of yours gets broken by a rock - and it does happen!

Almost all Mercedes gas and diesel engines from the late 50's up to the early 90's used pressed in steel pins to hold the timing chain guide rails in position (inside the engine block). To easily remove these you can use a slide hammer IF the engine is out of the car!!! In the real world of old cars, timing chain guide rails often have to be replaced with the engine in the car! There is no room between the front of the engine and the radiator to get any type of slide hammer or long puller tool to work.

This 400 plus page guide covers factory time repair estimates for most common jobs on Mercedes Models produced during the 1960s. Covers chassis 111 sedans, coupes and convertibles, 112, 113, 108, 109 and early 114 and 115 models. Pages are laid out in chart format listing jobs and time estimates in column format. NOTE: Pages have been removed from original factory binding and placed in medium 3 ring binder for easy of reading.  
Binder itself is not in very good condition but is a standard smaller size.

This 400 plus page guide covers factory time repair estimates for most common jobs on Mercedes Models produced during the 1960s. Covers chassis 111 sedans, coupes and convertibles, 112, 113, 108, 109 and early 114 and 115 models. Pages are laid out in chart format listing jobs and time estimates in column format.

 

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1971 time manual

This is one of the best built fluid extractors I have seen. As is it works great for drawing power steering fluid, brake fluid, etc. out of their reservoirs. If you attach a hard plastic line on the end (you will need to fabricate a fitting reducer) you can even draw transmission and engine oil. It works great for extracting trans fluid when it has been overfilled. Can be used to add new fluids. You can add transmission fluid carefully to get just the right amount without spilling all over the place. :-)

There are nice measurng marks on the outside of the plastic tub. The pump rod is made from brass and both end caps are threaded aluminum (so you can remove them for cleaning and inspection.