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Great to carry in trunk for emergencies. Nice case. No instructions included with this kit.

This kit includes:

5 handy bulbs to carry in your trunk for emergencies.  2 single element for turn signal, brake light or backup lights. 2 small single element for tail light running lights (correct size and watts to prevent melting plastic). 1 twin element bulb for from marker / turn signal lens.

Fits almost all models from the early 1970s to the mid 1990s

This bulb is a single element bulb that is used in the brake light, rear turn signal and your rear back up lens. It's a very universal bulb. Fits mid 60s to 90s Mercedes.

These are correct Osram small diameter bulbs for your rear tail light. Use this bulb to prevent over heating of the lens. Comes in a 6 bulbs set.

This is a 3 piece scribe and pick tool set - great for marking aluminum and steel.

Heat shrink tubing is very handing to have if you are doing any wire connections or splicing. This tubing can go over the splice or solder joint and when heat is applied from a heat gun it will shrink right down tight to the joint and protect it from shorts and corrosion.

This circuit tester has a long 7 inch point to get into hard to reach places. Accordion cord extends up to 12 feet! Wow!

This is a set of metric nut drivers. It come in 7 different handy sizes and is even color coded. Sizes include 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11mm.

This is one cleverly designed tool. Could not have done it better myself. I actually use to make a couple different types before I found this one. If you have ever tried to remove a radiator hose corroded to an alumium housing you know what I am talking about and you will love this tool. Great when changing radiator hoses, especially the short hose. 8 inches in length.

It will get those stuck radiator hoses loose and off in seconds...

I like this - permanent - threadlocker because it is super strong but can still be removed with a heavy handed breaker bar. This is a very large bottle for the price and is a must have for Mercedes diesel owners. I use it anytime I am doing major repair work on an engine or transmission. Great for front crank bolt, cam bolt, torque converter bolts, injection pump mounting nuts, front engine accessories, brake caliper bolts, front suspension, etc. Anything that you can just not afford to come loose.

This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.

Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.

This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.

Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.

If you work around your Mercedes much this is a great tool to have. The quality is exceptional for the price. It will reset to measure in both inches and millimeters. For a limited time I will even include a spare button battery at no extra cost.

If you are going to test and tune your diesel fuel injectors this is a must have tool! It is the best way to determine the current thickness of the pressure adjusting shim washer in each injector and to help choose the proper replacement. We are committed to helping you service and overhaul this critical maintenance component.

Here is an inexpensive set of cleaning brushes that really get down in the crevices. The plastic one is good for exterior cleaning around the window and body trim. The brass is good for cleaning engine parts you don't want to scratech. The steel one is excellent if you are doing some rust repair.

If you are going to work on your diesel fuel injectors you are going to need a torque wrench. If you are going to tighten your alloy wheel lug bolts properly you should use a torque wrench. In fact if you do your own work you should have a 1/2 inch clicker torque wrench in your tool box. I know why you don't have one. They tend to be expensive for the limited amount you might use one. Well, now you can get a quality one for a very good price. This is a special offer and we only have a limited number in stock.

It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.

If you are going to change a water pump on a 103 engine you will need this tool or you may never get the pump off. The hours wasted can lead to extreme mental meltdown (I speak from experience :-) ). Access and clearance is so tight that a normal 3/8 inch drive extension and universal will not work. This is a quality set of tools put together for you to work right from the start. The socket is Craftsman and the extensions and universal with adapter are Stanley. Partial instructions included.

This tool comes only with instructions to get on and to remove the water pump bolts. It DOES NOT come with complete instructions on removing and replacing the pump. Those instructions are in the works and will be available soon.

Almost all Mercedes gas and diesel engines from the late 50's up to the early 90's used pressed in steel pins to hold the timing chain guide rails in position (inside the engine block). To easily remove these you can use a slide hammer IF the engine is out of the car!!! In the real world of old cars, timing chain guide rails often have to be replaced with the engine in the car! There is no room between the front of the engine and the radiator to get any type of slide hammer or long puller tool to work.