I have been discovering this is one of those maintenance areas that suffers from severe neglect. Failure of the rubber support or center drive shaft bearing can cause all types of improperly diagnosed vibration problems - some commonly change with vehicle speed.
Often broken or missing. See location below. Easy installation,
This is a 3-part series combined into one 30-minute video. If you can understand how the transmission works, you will be better able to diagnose your shifting problems. Kent will explain the 5 key elements in the transmission that control the shift sequence.
Kent has combined three of our popular M110 products into a single master kit. Each one can be purchased separately ( see below ), or you can purchase all here and save headaches and $$. You will receive detailed video instructions on how to install and use each one.
You will get not only belt replacement instructions, but also instructions for changing the thermostat, the A/C idler pulley, and the fan clutch, as well as tips and tricks to do these jobs successfully without breaking anything or pulling your hair out.
If you have no idea when this pulley was last replaced, just plan to replace it when you do your V-belts. The bearings can get quite noisy long before it actually fails.
Location of the idler pulley.
Four new Continental belts with detailed video instructions. You should consider replacing the following at the same time, as they are commonly due to age and neglect.
This tool will make it easier to remove and/or adjust the fuel cell without damaging the housing.
In this video, Kent will explain the two adjustments you can make on a WUR.
CHECK the different sizes below:
This video will demonstrate removing the old fuel injectors from a 1979 450SEL and installing new holders, new seals, and new Bosch injectors.
These have been unavailable for a long time, leaving 450 engine owners with the only option to use there old ones or try to finds some good used ones on eBay. Watch the video below.
In this 14-minute video, Kent will explain what he includes in his vowel body cleaning and lubrication kit and why it is included. He will also share some tips concerning the lubrication. You should use when reassembling the vowel body.
Why rebuild a 722.3 valve body? Some may have told you just to "leave it alone." It can be a little intimidating, especially if you have visions of all kinds of springs, balls, and little valves flying all over the place when you take it apart. Watch the video below for a short overview.
In this 7-minute video, Kent will explain the process and show you how to hook it up to your transmission and get a good reading. For accurac,y it is best to have the transmission warm, so take it out for 15 to 20 minutes before you hook up the gauge under your car.
In this 28-minute video, Kent will share with you some of his secrets on testing and adjusting the warm-up regulator on a 1976 to 1985 Mercedes K-Jetronic fuel-injected engine. A fuel pressure testing and his special kit will be required to complete all tasks.
This style of WUR started showing up in the late 1970's. It was not installed on all vehicles. You have to look at the WUR on your engine to determine what you have. You can not go by year and model. IF YOU ORDER THIS IN ERROR, IT IS NOT RETURNABLE.
B2 REPLACEMENT PISTONS ARE NO LONGER AVAILABLE NEW. But you can repair your old B2, unless it is the very early type with the narrow circumferential ceiling ring.
In this 14-minute video Kent will show you how to use each item in this kit to help to test your K-Jetronic fuel injection system to determine if your warm-up regulator is working properly. No full testing or repair information is included in this video.
Tired of the "old ways" of changing fluids in your car? Watch the video below to see how to do it fast, with less mess and stress-free.
PLEASE NOTE BEFORE ORDERING: This WUR function test kit is INCLUDED in both 1976 to 1985 6-cylinder and V8 full pressure test kits (see related products below). There is no need to order this separately.
This is the most important video you will need to watch if you are doing a fuel system pressure test on a 1976 to 1985 Mercedes V8 engine. Kent walks you through the correct testing sequence in this 26-minute video. NOTE: this is a diagnostic instructional video only.
New in April of 2026. This is the "whole ball of wax," including 10 free on-demand training videos. Kent put this kit together for those enthusiasts who own multiple classic Mercedes from the 1970s through the 1990s. Fuel Injection back then was not as reliable as it is now.
This tester is designed specifically for 6- and 8-cylinder engines with KE-Jetronic fuel injection. (will NOT work on the 2.3-liter four-cylinder engine). Instructions will also be provided so you can do a fuel pressure test on the LH-Jetronic fuel-injected engines of the 90s.
Since new B2 pistons are no longer being made, repairing your old one is your only option. The very early version with the narrow sealing ring on the outside of the piston is not repairable. You piston MUST have the wide ring as shown. Video installation instructions are included.
In this 28-minute video, Kent will walk you step-by-step through the process of fuel, flow, and fuel pressure testing and the M110 engine with Bosch K- Jetronic fuel injection. Please keep in mind.
In this 22 minute video Ken will walk you through the steps of hooking up his injection pressure tester to an M1 10 fuel injected engine, using the modified fittings included in his kit. No testing instructions are included here.
This tester is specific to K-Jetronic V8 engines due to the special fittings and adapters it includes. These included M116 and M117 engines in the W116, R107, and early W126 chassis.
Looks like new. Smooth operation and no bends in the mast. These original masts are NLA and this is from old new stock. The smooth tail was used on antennas from the mid 1970's up until around 1983-1985. This would include the W116, R107, early W123, and early W126.
In this 22-minute instructional video, Kent will disassemble a 1979 Fuel Injection Delivery System and show you how he paints the brackets and puts it all back together with new parts. To purchase the kit related to this video, please see the related products below.
Hard to find one of these in good condition. This one is used but in excellent condition.
There is only one of these, and it is so rare that we may not see another. Both parts are no longer available new, and pressure-compensating valves are in high demand. The compensating valve has been opened up and inspected and is in good condition.
Only one available. Check out the before-and-after pictures. Kent redid this unit himself. Study the pictures carefully and note what is not included.
These instructions are specific to installing the relocation bracket assembly that we offer for the fuel-injected M110 engine. The video runs 11 minutes and just gives an overview (not step-by-step instructions) of how you can build a relocation bracket from the parts included in our kit.
When checking your existing fuel delivery system, you may need to remove the plastic shroud for a better look. The key is spotting the "T" with a small-diameter hard fuel line coming off the line between the filter and the accumulator. Look at the pictures below to compare.
This is a builder's kit and will require fabrication on your part. That means strap bending, location testing, bracket drilling, and WUR mounting. The kit comes with Kent's video instructions on how to do this and on how to hook up the electrical connector, vacuum hose, and two fuel lines.
There is no need to purchase this short 4-minute video. It is a wiring update to the electric water pump kit we sell, and this video will be included. See related products below.
Why do a fuel system flow and pressure test? Without one, you will not know if your fuel injection is working properly. This is even more pronounced on K-Jetronic engines that incorporate a warm-up regulator. And guess where that is located on the M110 engine?
New water pump as shown for your 380SL or 380SE/C. These are getting more expensive by the month!
In this 16-minute video, Kent explains the two upgrades he made in early 2026 to his electronic fuel injector tester. This video is specific to the tester we sell on this website. See related products below.
Original fuel filters for these models do NOT come with the right-angle fitting that attaches to the filter inlet (see pictures below). On some occasions, this fitting is missing or rusted beyond use. In that case, you will need a new fitting, but the original fittings are no longer available.
If you have an early OBD-1 system and your check engine light comes on, you will need this to diagnose the problem. There is lots of information online on how to do this.
Tired of the "old ways" of changing fluids in your car? Watch the video below to see how to do it fast, with less mess and stress-free.
Kent's highly detailed xx-minute video on how to remove the K3 and pump assembly from the front of a 722.3, take it all apart to gain access to the big pump O-ring, replace it and the torque converter seal, and put it all back together again.
Kent will share his knowledge from years of doing pressure tests on these old transmissions. Don't be afraid to do this. It is definitely a entry level DIY procedure.
Too much pressure and you will blow the seals. Too little pressure and you will wear out the clutch packs. When installing a new vacuum modulator on your transmission, you most likely will need to adjust it. There are two ways to do this.
This is one of the most common leaks we have seen on these transmissions over the past 25 years. If you are discovering big puddels of red transmission fluid on the ground at the front of the transmission I can almost guarantee it is the front pump leaking.
This is Kent's master kit for solving a number of transmission-related shifting problems. Please note it will not solve them all, particularly if your transmission is worn out.
Good condition as shown.
When you are resealing or rebuilding, or even just working on the B1 piston, you need to check the release pressure. This is done by measuring the distance the piston has to travel before the brake band clamps onto the K2 drum. This should NOT be neglected.