1979 1980 450SL 450SLC 450SEL and 280SE Newly Rebuilt Fuel Delivering System
Only one available. Check out the before-and-after pictures. Kent redid this unit himself. Study the pictures carefully and note what is not included.
Only one available. Check out the before-and-after pictures. Kent redid this unit himself. Study the pictures carefully and note what is not included.
These instructions are specific to installing the relocation bracket assembly that we offer for the fuel-injected M110 engine. The video runs 11 minutes and just gives an overview (not step-by-step instructions) of how you can build a relocation bracket from the parts included in our kit.
When checking your existing fuel delivery system, you may need to remove the plastic shroud for a better look. The key is spotting the "T" with a small-diameter hard fuel line coming off the line between the filter and the accumulator. Look at the pictures below to compare.
This is a builder's kit and will require fabrication on your part. That means strap bending, location testing, bracket drilling, and WUR mounting. The kit comes with Kent's video instructions on how to do this and on how to hook up the electrical connector, vacuum hose, and two fuel lines.
There is no need to purchase this short 4-minute video. It is a wiring update to the electric water pump kit we sell, and this video will be included. See related products below.
Why do a fuel system flow and pressure test? Without one, you will not know if your fuel injection is working properly. This is even more pronounced on K-Jetronic engines that incorporate a warm-up regulator. And guess where that is located on the M110 engine?
New water pump as shown for your 380SL or 380SE/C. These are getting more expensive by the month!
In this 16-minute video, Kent explains the two upgrades he made in early 2026 to his electronic fuel injector tester. This video is specific to the tester we sell on this website. See related products below.
Original fuel filters for these models do NOT come with the right-angle fitting that attaches to the filter inlet (see pictures below). On some occasions, this fitting is missing or rusted beyond use. In that case, you will need a new fitting, but the original fittings are no longer available.
If you have an early OBD-1 system and your check engine light comes on, you will need this to diagnose the problem. There is lots of information online on how to do this.
Tired of the "old ways" of changing fluids in your car? Watch the video below to see how to do it fast, with less mess and stress-free.
Kent's highly detailed xx-minute video on how to remove the K3 and pump assembly from the front of a 722.3, take it all apart to gain access to the big pump O-ring, replace it and the torque converter seal, and put it all back together again.
Kent will share his knowledge from years of doing pressure tests on these old transmissions. Don't be afraid to do this. It is definitely a entry level DIY procedure.
Too much pressure and you will blow the seals. Too little pressure and you will wear out the clutch packs. When installing a new vacuum modulator on your transmission, you most likely will need to adjust it. There are two ways to do this.
This is one of the most common leaks we have seen on these transmissions over the past 25 years. If you are discovering big puddels of red transmission fluid on the ground at the front of the transmission I can almost guarantee it is the front pump leaking.
This is Kent's master kit for solving a number of transmission-related shifting problems. Please note it will not solve them all, particularly if your transmission is worn out.
Good condition as shown.
When you are resealing or rebuilding, or even just working on the B1 piston, you need to check the release pressure. This is done by measuring the distance the piston has to travel before the brake band clamps onto the K2 drum. This should NOT be neglected.
PLEASE NOTE: As stated earlier, Kent does not cover the overhaul of the valve body in this video series. That could be another long series all by itself. He will show you how to make the K1 accumulator upgrade.
In this detailed step-by-step 26-minute video instruction, Kent will show you how to correctly install the B1 and B2 piston assemblies, check them for proper operation, and measure the required "free-play." He will also cover other items you will need to install on
Now, for the part you have been waiting for —and perhaps the most critical. If you forget to install even a single small needle bearing or a couple of thin washers, you could encounter some serious problems.
There are several important seals and O-rings that need to be replaced before proceeding with reassembly. In this 26-minute video, Kent will go down both the right and left sides of the case and demonstrate each one. 72234CLASS
In this 19-minute session, Kent will remove a rear oil pump from an early 722.3, disassemble it, and demonstrate some of the challenges associated with resealing it. 72234CLASS
In part three of his 722.3 video class, Kent will give you his recommendations of some tools and supplies you may need when you go to tackle this job yourself. He will also give you recommendations on additional manuals you should download from the internet. The video is 21 minutes in length.
This is a comprehensive video (30 minutes long) that provides an in-depth explanation of testing and adjusting the modulation pressure in the 722.3 and 722.4 transmissions.
PLEASE NOTE: This should be used in conjunction with our modulator pressure test kit (see below). It can be unhealthy for your transmission to just "guess by feel" where the T-pin should be turned.
Out of years of frustration trying to adjust the modulator during a test drive, Kent came up with a better and faster way to make adjustments by just "reaching" under the car. This little device replaces the plastic cap during testing and adjustment.
Kent will show you the procedure (along with troubleshooting and testing tips) with a 722.3 Transmission on the bench.
In this 13-minute session, Kent will open up the planetary gear assembly with the one-way clutch and show you how to put in the new seals. This one is a little bit tricky. You have to be careful not to knock the clutch assembly apart. It also takes some effort to get it all back together.
Kent will walk you through the steps to remove the drive shaft SAVELY. Replace the center bearing and carrier on the bench / vise. And finally, replacing the drive shaft correctly back into the car. This applies to the R107, W116, W126 and W124 chassis. The example here if from a W124 300E
In this detailed step-by-step 20-minute video instruction, Kent will take this unit apart on the bench and demonstrate how to install all new O-rings and seals. 72234CLASS
In this xx-minute video, Kent will explain how to set up and use the different components in his kit (see below) to test modulation pressure in a 1981 to 1995 automatic transmission. This should be done when replacing the modulator or after rebuilding a transmission.
PLEASE READ CAREFULLY BEFORE ORDERING!
PLEASE ORDER THE UPGRADED KIT BELOW for your 1981 to 1985 turbo diesel Mercedes.
This is an improved factory upgrade for the older 722.3 transmission valve body up through 1990. Later models were revised and this upgrade is not required. The accumulator parts you will install are Genuine Mercedes.
In Part 7 of this transmission rebuild training class, Kent will prep the drums for reassembly with the new seals. Installation of the piston in the K1 drum can be particularly challenging.
These are probably the most important internal seals that you need to replace. Pressure loss in the K1 and K2 is probably the primary reason for delayed shifts and flares between shifts. This is the first part in resealing these important brake drums.
In Part 2 of this training series, Kent will show you what you will want to inspect before you begin ordering parts for a transmission overhaul. In most cases, you will only need gaskets, seals, and clutches, but you want to make sure. 72234CLASS
In this first class lesson, Kent will take apart a non-shifting transmission that he removed from a 1987 300E. The video is 23 minutes long, and you will get to see how everything comes off and out of the transmission case to leave you in awe of what lies inside.
Green top modulators are no longer available NLA. It is difficult even to find good used ones. Hard to believe we still have one. Kent found it hidden away in the shop the other day and fully tested it. The long pin is included and it has a good solft black rubber cap.
Three seals in each drum need to be replaced. Only the bottom "hidden" drum seals in Viton are included.
Most of the R107s you see running around have the black blade holders on the silver arms. The reason is that owners can not find original rubber blade inserts. So, the silver blade holders get lost!. You want yours to look original. Well, here it is.
This will work for almost all 4-speed automatics from 1981 to 1995. This transmission overhaul tool set is custom-modified here in our shop at MercedesSource. We make it to order, and it may take a few days to ship. It contains five tools.
VERY limited stock. These are the exact fuses you will receive.
The B1 piston assembly is not easy to remove and then reinstall. Because of the length of the two big springs behind the cover, it takes a tool that has a lengthy throw.
We modified this slide hammer puller set in our shop so it will work in removing two key components in the 722.3 and 722.4 automatic transmissions. Getting the B2 piston and sleeve out of the case can be a real bear without this tool. With it, it comes out quickly and easily.
You will need a 12-point DEEP socket. That is the only thing that will work. Most impact sockets are six-sided. The best way to remove this nut is with a big impact wrench with the transmission locked in park. So you will need a quality heavy-duty socket. This one is made in the U.S.A.
Take a very close look at the picture. These are all the gaskets and seals you will need to replace if you open up your 722.3 transmission that was produced from 1981 to 1990 for all 6 and 8-cylinder passenger cars that had a displacement of 3.0 liters or more.