JUST ARRIVED! German-made diesel fuel injector nozzles are back! CLICK HERE to order.
PLEASE NOTE: This should be used in conjunction with our modulator pressure test kit (see below). It can be unhealthy for your transmission to just "guess by feel" where the T-pin should be turned.
Out of years of frustration trying to adjust the modulator during a test drive, Kent came up with a better and faster way to make adjustments by just "reaching" under the car. This little device replaces the plastic cap during testing and adjustment.
Kent will show you the procedure (along with troubleshooting and testing tips) with a 722.3 Transmission on the bench.
In this 13-minute session, Kent will open up the planetary gear assembly with the one-way clutch and show you how to put in the new seals. This one is a little bit tricky. You have to be careful not to knock the clutch assembly apart. It also takes some effort to get it all back together.
Kent will walk you through the steps to remove the drive shaft SAVELY. Replace the center bearing and carrier on the bench / vise. And finally, replacing the drive shaft correctly back into the car. This applies to the R107, W116, W126 and W124 chassis. The example here if from a W124 300E
In this detailed step-by-step 20-minute video instruction, Kent will take this unit apart on the bench and demonstrate how to install all new O-rings and seals. 72234CLASS
In this xx-minute video, Kent will explain how to set up and use the different components in his kit (see below) to test modulation pressure in a 1981 to 1995 automatic transmission. This should be done when replacing the modulator or after rebuilding a transmission.
PLEASE READ CAREFULLY BEFORE ORDERING!
PLEASE ORDER THE UPGRADED KIT BELOW for your 1981 to 1985 turbo diesel Mercedes.
This is an improved factory upgrade for the older 722.3 transmission valve body up through 1990. Later models were revised and this upgrade is not required. The accumulator parts you will install are Genuine Mercedes.
In Part 7 of this transmission rebuild training class, Kent will prep the drums for reassembly with the new seals. Installation of the piston in the K1 drum can be particularly challenging.
These are probably the most important internal seals that you need to replace. Pressure loss in the K1 and K2 is probably the primary reason for delayed shifts and flares between shifts. This is the first part in resealing these important brake drums.
In Part 2 of this training series, Kent will show you what you will want to inspect before you begin ordering parts for a transmission overhaul. In most cases, you will only need gaskets, seals, and clutches, but you want to make sure. 72234CLASS
In this first class lesson, Kent will take apart a non-shifting transmission that he removed from a 1987 300E. The video is 23 minutes long, and you will get to see how everything comes off and out of the transmission case to leave you in awe of what lies inside.
Green top modulators are no longer available NLA. It is difficult even to find good used ones. Hard to believe we still have one. Kent found it hidden away in the shop the other day and fully tested it. The long pin is included and it has a good solft black rubber cap.
Three seals in each drum need to be replaced. Only the bottom "hidden" drum seals in Viton are included.
Most of the R107s you see running around have the black blade holders on the silver arms. The reason is that owners can not find original rubber blade inserts. So, the silver blade holders get lost!. You want yours to look original. Well, here it is.
This will work for almost all 4-speed automatics from 1981 to 1995. This transmission overhaul tool set is custom-modified here in our shop at MercedesSource. We make it to order, and it may take a few days to ship. It contains five tools.
VERY limited stock. These are the exact fuses you will receive.
The B1 piston assembly is not easy to remove and then reinstall. Because of the length of the two big springs behind the cover, it takes a tool that has a lengthy throw.
We modified this slide hammer puller set in our shop so it will work in removing two key components in the 722.3 and 722.4 automatic transmissions. Getting the B2 piston and sleeve out of the case can be a real bear without this tool. With it, it comes out quickly and easily.
You will need a 12-point DEEP socket. That is the only thing that will work. Most impact sockets are six-sided. The best way to remove this nut is with a big impact wrench with the transmission locked in park. So you will need a quality heavy-duty socket. This one is made in the U.S.A.
Take a very close look at the picture. These are all the gaskets and seals you will need to replace if you open up your 722.3 transmission that was produced from 1981 to 1990 for all 6 and 8-cylinder passenger cars that had a displacement of 3.0 liters or more.
This WUR is very simple in design and has no internal diaphrams. It is also quite short compared to the other types. No instructions are included, but they are readily available on the internet by doing some google searches.
When it is time to change the rear end fluid, why not get rid of your old rusty drain plug(s) and replace one or both with stainless steel plugs?
In this 25-minute, very detailed instructional video, Kent will show you how to use his special tool to remove the guide pins holding the top timing chain guide rails in the cylinder heads.
This is a must-have tool if you own a 1970 to 1991 M116 or M117 V8 engine. It will also work on older six-cylinder gas and four and 5-cylinder engines from the 1960s up through 1985. Note: The included video instructions only cover removal and installation of the pin.
An often overlooked aged rubber part on these older v8 engines. No instructions included but can be found online.
A BIG C-clamp like this is pretty handy to have around your shop, but it is a must if you plan to open up your 1980s-era ZF aluminum power steering pump.
These 8-minute video instructions are now included with Kent's basic and deluxe Version 3 fuel injection pressure tester. You will learn some tips and tricks on how to pressure test a 1976 to 1985 fuel-injected V8 engine using one of our test kits.
Will NOT fit European Models. Will NOT fit 560SL. Will NOT fit 350SL and early 450SL. Actual parts shown. See details below.
Would you like to make your 560SL engine compartment look like new again. This part is one of the biggest offenders as they all turn this weird yellow color, making it appear old and fading.
Would you like to make your 107 engine compartment look like new again. This part is one of the biggest offenders as they all turn this weird yellow color, making it appear old and fading. Cap is not included.
Almost all of these seals are now severly compressor or rotten. Do not allow water to get down into the blower motor cavity. This is a very common source of hidden rust the the R107's. Other parts related to this seal are listed below.
Sometimes, it can be very frustrating to "bang in" those chrome moldings below the door on an old R-107. The clips enlarge or they are too deep in the rocker panel. We have found that these white plugs work better than the standard red plugs used on other models of that error.
Old plastic often just breaks. If you find one or more broken on your rocker trim, it is best to replace all of them. This kit is for one side ( usually requiring 7 or 8 clips). Order 2 at checkout for a full set right and left. Rocker molding insertion clips are available separately.
These instructions are specific to the axle boot replacement kit we sell but can also be "generic" in application to most models with rubber axle boots. They come as a PDF in a 2-up format.
Unless your steering box is all worn out, these are the parts you need to replace to get your 1972 to 1985 R107 steering tight again. That includes the 350SL,450SL, 450SLC, 380SLC and 380SL. Be sure to get a front-end alignment after installing these parts.
In this short 3-minute video, Kent will show you a trick that few know about. You can get those tapered shaft ball joints ( like to find on tie rods and control rods) loose without damaging the rubber boot. It can be faster and less painful than using traditional methods.
In this short 3-minute video, Kent will share a few tips that will aid you when installing new front subframe mounts in the 1972 to 1989 R107 and the 1968 to 1976 W115 and W114. These are in addition to the PDF instructions he has written. ( see below).
If you have one of our pressure brake bleeders, you can easily attach this wand to the end of the hose by removing the brake master cylinder reservoir cap. You can place the exact amount of fluid in the tank, hang the wand in the fill hole, lock the valve open, and walk away.
Quality new aftermarket molded rubber seals (left and right) as shown. Old, deformed, or deteriorated seals are a common cause of water leaks into the trunk.
The wiring plug covers must be removed with a special tool in order to install these boots. The old covers will break when you try to remove them. We recommend you buy new wiring covers when replacing either my aftermarket custom-made silicone boots or the original rubber boots.
In Kent's 32-minute video on rewiring the plugs on your D-jetronic fuel injectors, he will walk you through the two options on how you can use this kit - then show you how in do it and finally give you some tips on automotive wire splicing using the best tools and supplies.
On most D-jetronic engines, the fuel injector wiring plugs are hard and brittle, and the boots are torn or missing altogether. You may say, "If it is working, why fix it? Watch the videos below to understand why this is important and how easy it would be for you to do it yourself.
These old power non-tilting sunroofs are now 45-plus years old. These are specifically the sunroofs that used the early-style rectangular sunroof motor and separate drive mechanism connected by a rubber drive bushing. They did not come with deflector air dams.
This is the FIRST thing you should do on your D-Jet V8 engine. This is true when approaching fixing any older gasoline or diesel engine. If you don't do this, you will be guessing and spending money forever trying to get the engine to run right!
Did the engine just quit? Does it just not start even with prolonged cranking? What could it be? The first thing you want to determine with most older cars is whether there is spark to the plugs.