Kent believes this is the best protection you can give your rear end. Since there is no filter there for the fluid, nothing other than this super strong magnetic drain plug can keep metal particles from working their way back up into the bearings and gears.
Search | W126 | Driveline and rear end
For 603 6 cylinder diesel engine models listed only. Sold individually with new bolts and nuts. Two required per car. These can be change without removing the drive line from the car but special procedures are required to collapse the shaft so you can get the flex disks off both ends.
FITS THE FOLLOWING All 116, 123 and 126 chassis diesel cars with 5 cyl. turbo engines.
Fits the following: 201 chassis 190E 2.3 and 2.6 and 190D 2.5 from 1987 to 1993. 124 chassis 260E, 300E, and 300TE from 1986 to 1989. Also fits 300CE 1988 and 1989.
We are now offering a kit for almost all 116 and 126 chassis with 2 new tie rods and instructions (does not work on 6.9). Kit contains right and left tie rod assemblies as shown.
FITS THE FOLLOWING: All Mercedes Chassis 111 113 108 109 107 114 115 116 123 126 from 1968 to 1991 (not applicable for 201 or 124 chassis). This is a very common wear problem on most older Mercedes.
New Drive shaft center support bearing. Fits all 240D, 300D, 300CD, 300TD, 300SD 300SDL 300CE 300E 420SEL 380SE 280SL 450SL 560SL, gasoline and diesel models from 1968 to 1993. This bearing may need replacing on high mileage cars.
Does your rear end make funny noises while driving? Does the rear of your car sag in the back? Do you have excessive rear tire wear? Does the rear of your car feel like it is moving around? During heavy braking or rapid acceleration does your Mercedes want to steer right or left on its own!
Brand new rear Subframe mount kit made by Meyle, for 126 Chassis from 1986 to 1991, models listed above. SORRY NO INSTRUCTIONS.
Location of Sub-Frame
For all early 126 Sedans and Coupes to 1985. Rear Sub frame mounts for all 126 Chassis, from 1981 to 1985 Only. Including 300SD 380SE 380SEC 380SEL 500SEC 500SEL. Illustrated PDF instructions included. Sub-frame
This tank works amazing! Put in the heavy rear end or trans fluid. Pump up the pressure. Stick the non-fall-out end in to fill hole... and just turn on the valve.
Have you dreaded changing the rear end fluid before because it is a pain and ends up being really "messy?" Kent finally decided there had to be a better way so he went to work and came up with the idea of using a simple and affordable custom made pressure tank to "flush" and refill differentials
This is version 2 of the special wrench Kent designed to remove and install rear end and manual transmission hex head fill and drain plugs. Have you ever had a problem trying to get a fill or drain plug out of a manual transmission or rear end housing ( especially with limited space)?
A better performing and more comfortable 14mm hex wrench to use when changing the fluid in your rear end. Watch the video to see why.
Why this new wrench? Every had a problem trying to get a fill or drain plug out of a manual transmission or rear end housing ( especially in a tight place )? Found other wrenches won't fit into those tight places or are just not stable or strong enough?
These are the instructions that are included free with all of our Rear Subframe Mount Replacement kits. If you are interersted in seeing what this job entails, or you have the parts already, then these downloadable instructions are great.
Wheel bearing maintenance and service should not be neglected. If you are hearing strange rumbling noises up front while driving you should check your wheel bearings. Replacing them is not a diffiuclt D.I.Y. job if you have the right knowledge and tools.
This is not a normal nut. On the face it has a special hard plastic nylon seal. When this seal deteriorates you may see evidence of power steering fluid seeping out of the bottom the the adjustment locknut (located on the top of the steering box).
WARNING: IF YOU ORDER WRONG ONE BY MISTAKE THE PART IS NOT RETURNABLE! Fits all models in chassis range listed below. PLEASE NOTE: This is a LEFT hand thread so you MUST check the thread pattern on your current tie rod before ordering in order to receive the correct part.
WARNING: IF YOU ORDER THE WRONG ONE IT IS NOT RETURNABLE.
If you need everything for your front hub bearing replacement then this is the best deal. This kit is for ONE SIDE ONLY. Comes with inner and outer wheel bearings, seal, cap, ground clip and pre-load adjusting bolt. Fits models listed above only ( with ABS).
This important rubber coupler connects your steering column shaft to the steering box input shaft. Inspect yours for cracking now. Always replace when replacing steering gear box.
WARNING: We are finding that people are replacing axles from other models that have different size boots. This kit will ONLY replace boots on ORIGINAL AXLES!! BOOTS PROVIDED IN THIS KIT FOR INNER AND OUTER ARE THE SAME SIZE. AXLE END I.D. is approx 7/8". CAN END OF BOOT I.D.
New front INNER wheel bearing with race for one side only. Fits right or left side on 116, 123 and 126 chassis, 240D 300D 300TD 300CD 300SD from 1977 to 1984. PLEASE NOTE: WILL NOT FIT MODELS WITH ABS.
New front outer wheel bearing with race for one side only. Fits right or left side on 116, 123 and 126 chassis, 240D 300D 300TD 300CD 300SD from 1977 to 1984. PLEASE NOTE: WILL NOT FIT MODELS WITH ABS.
Fits all 114 115 116 107 123 124 126 drivelines 1968 to 1993.
I have been discovering this is one of those maintenance areas that suffers from severe neglect. Failure of the rubber support or center drive shaft bearing can cause all types of improperly diagnosed vibration problems - some commonly change with vehicle speed.