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This is one of Kent's favorite tools. Lets you reach into tight places - very long nose curved pliers with teeth - like hemostat. With the locking handles it is amazing what this clamp / pliers can hold - and the tight places it can get into!
We designed this tool to be able to easily pry off the C-clip holding the fluid tank onto the power steering pump on M112 and M113 engines.
This U.S.A. made 17 mm 8 inch long combination wrench is custom modified here in our shop to help you easily install Bilstein front and rear shocks on most of the older model Mercedes Benz.
If you have been around old Mercedes for any length of time, you have probably run into a problem with your ignition key starting to "stick" or one that would not turn. This problem can leave you stranded and could cost hundreds of dollars to fix $$$.
Diesel idling too fast. Diesel idling too slow. Diesel shaking at idle. Transmission jerks with shifting from Park to Drive. These are some of the symptoms that might indicate your engine's idle speed is not adjusted correctly.
Contains all supplies and video instructions you need - including a high speed power multitool to remove very fine scratches. Purchase together and save $$$$. Ever wish you could get rid of the annoying wiper scratches on your front windshield (or rear hatch glass if you have a rear wiper)?
If you have been around old Mercedes for any length of time, you have probably run into a problem with your ignition key starting to "stick" or one that does not turn. This problem can leave you stranded and could cost hundreds of dollars to fix $$$.
Works on W114, W115, R107, W116, W123 and W126. A better performing and more comfortable 14mm hex wrench to use when changing the fluid in your rear end. Will work on manual transmission with 14mm drain plug only. Watch the video to see why.
Almost all Mercedes gas and diesel engines from the late 50's up to the early '90s used pressed in steel pins to hold the timing chain guide rails in position (inside the engine block).
Fuses, supplies, and video instructions (below) to restore most older fuse boxes to better than original condition.
Oil leaks at the oil pressure gauge are becoming an increasing problem, particularly on the 1981 to 1985 turbo diesel models. You will discover it when you see wetness at the bottom lip of your instrument cluster or you find oil leaking on your feet or legs.
Enter the dreaded “check engine” light. When it suddenly comes on it can create fear and panic in many a driver. Kent has known some people who have sold their cars cheap because they just did not want to deal with taking the car into a mechanic to get it fixed.
If you already have a multi-function tool or you plan to buy either our glass or anodized aluminum polish kit ( see below ) you really don't need a second tool unless you want to dedicate one just for "banging" on rusty fittings and bolts. We offer this same kit with the tool included.
This is one of Kent's favorite tools around his shop. It is used almost daily. The tool rose out of a need to be able to safely hold fuel inectors while cleaning when with a large high speed wire wheel. No tool like this is availabe so it had to be built in our shop!
This can be one of the hardest trim pieces to remove if you don't want to damage the car's paint or the aluminum trim itself. When working on detailing his 300TD wagon, Kent finally decided it was time to make a special tool for this operation.
This video is intended to be used as instructions when purchasing Kent's Rust Buster Tool. It can be viewed separately but you will need the tool to apply the principles. This video is included free of charge when purchasing the tool. See related products below:
Keeping your throttle linkage ball sockets and pivot points lubricated extends the life of the parts and maintains top performance for the engine as well as some of the later transmissions.
Planning to replace the head gaskets on your older v8 engine. You should have this tool on hand before you start. You don't think so? Watch the video and then decide.
This is one set that will pretty much do it all: door panels, radio, windows, interior trim, exterior trim, engine, fastener plugs, seals, etc. Strong enough to even change a bicycle tire...
You must drive this star bit into the head of the damaged bolt with a hammer, but it will hold. The bolt will then need to be replaced. Watch the video below as Kent will explain how it works.
For mount kits and hardware, see related products below.
This will hold the top of the strut and keep it from turning when removing and installing the 22mm nut.
This simple tool set will save you much frustration and possible damage to yourself or to your ML hood. These tools allow you to remove the hood struts easily without damaging the spring clip or ball socket. Also works on many other hood and tail gate struts (like the Suburban).
This set of 5 pick tools have very thin and sharp points. Best set Kent has found to remove orings in hard to get to locations. The variety of angles available allows you to get into almost anywhere to remove and o-ring, sealing ring or other small part.
Fits all DIESEL ENGINE exhaust systems for 115, 116, 123, 126, 124 and 201 chassis from 1968 to 1995. If you are looking for a more robust exhaust hanger this is it! It is a stronger and more secure exhaust hanger than the standard round rubber type.
Here is a brand new set of four exhaust "donuts". Check your existing rubber hangers on your exhaust. If they are cracked replace them before you lose your mufflers! If your exhaust is rattling, these should fix the problem. Fits all chassis models 108 107 113 116 123 126.
We have been looking for a long time to find a super strong and well made tool to adjust those tough 17 mm ball adjuster sockets on the early 4 and 6 clyinder gas engines.
I have used a lot of different clamping tools over the years to prevent fluids from leaking out when removing coolant, fuel, or brake fluid hoses. Most work ok. Some are hard to use in tight places. Many do not stop every last drip from coming out of the hose.
In this 14 minute instructional video, Kent will share with you the tools you will need along with some tips and tricks that will help you successfully remove a prechamber from the cylinder head. This can be done with the head on or off the engine.
Left and right door strikers as shown. No extras
Works on the following: 6 cylinder gas MFI engines 1959 to 1972, 6.3 and diesel engines 200D 220D 240D 300D 300TD 300CD and 300SD through 1985.
Want the best, fastest, and easiest way to polish faded anodized aluminum trim, to remove fine scratches from your glass, to loosen rusted and stuck fittings and bolts, and to sand rust out of tight places? - enter the multitool or multi-function tool.
This is the best tool to use when installing or removing the Monark hand primer pump. PLEASE NOTE. This is 19mm and will NOT work on the Bosch hand primer pump or other style pumps (most others are 17 mm).
With this deluxe kit, you can reduce frustration and save big when doing it yourself. Watch the videos below to learn more!
I figured out why the spark plugs in these V6 engines don't seem to ever get changed.
Watch the video below to see how this special wrench is used on the three nuts holding the exhaust downpipe to the turbocharger exhaust flange.
On a regular basis, Kent and Gerson custom make tools to make certain jobs go easier and faster. So is the case with this long reach ratchet. It was developed to get glow plugs out of the older diesel engines without having to remove the hard lines.
This is a set of four STAINLESS STEEL custom machined Torx head door striker bolts. They will eliminate many headaches related to door closing issues on the W126 and 560SL doors.
10 red plastic clips are included as shown. There are a number of reasons why you would want to remove the center side trim on your older Mercedes. You may just want to clean and detail behind them (it does get pretty dirty back there over the years).
This is a genuine Mercedes used part. These are much stronger than the aftermarket ones available. Genuine are no longer made. No damage to the slot or the threads. Only for models listed. Does not work on later aluminum diesel engines. Collar nut holds pre-chamber in cylinder head.
FITS THE FOLLOWING: 1985 to 1993 W124, W126, and W201 chassis with a 6 cylinder 103 engine. Is your M103 six cylinder engine not running as smoothly as it use to. These wires should be changed at 70,0000 to 80,000 miles for smooth running and peak performance.
Excellent used pre chamber as shown for OM 617 turbo diesel engines ONLY. If your diesel engine is running rough with excessive smoke and you have tried everything else it could be your engine's pre-chambers are damaged.
Emergency brake shoe maintenance is often neglected because the rear brake disc / rotor has to be removed to inspect and repair them. If the car has ever been driven a long distance with the emergency brake on, expect problems.
Kent came up with this kit because of all the times he replaced e-brake shoes only to end up with battered knuckles and extreme headaches. This video is included free with the purchase of the toolkit.
This kit has enough red clips (60) to do both sides on the 123 240D, 300D, 300TD, 300CD, 280E, and 280CE. You will receive the best tool to remove the side trim and the best tool to remove the old red clips from the side trim after removal.
This is now becoming one of the most common oil leaks in 1968 to 1985 diesel engines. Let's face it. These engines are getting older and the rubber seal is wearing and becoming more brittle with time.
Mercedes 114, 115, 107, 116, 123, 126, 124, and 201 chassis window trim has a super strong anodized coating that is impervious to hand polishing but still can oxidize when exposed to harsh environmental elements. When this happens the trim becomes spotted and milky in color and it is NOT pretty!
This part wears out over time and can cause a number of problems. Door clunking going over rough ground, door not closing easily, door accidentally popping open while driving, or you find yourself slamming the door just to get it fully closed.
This part wears out over time and can cause a number of problems. Door clunking going over rough ground, door not closing easily, door accidentally popping open while driving, or you find yourself slamming the door just to get it fully closed.
Unless the engine has been overhauled most of these old 6 cylinder gas engines of the '60s and very early '70s are running around with their original front crank seal. Take a look under your car if you have one - I bet it will look a lot like the engine in the video below.