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1983 300 td
my heat only works when the heater wheel is on high. the solenoid in the heater line has been replaced.
the engine is sufficiently warm

billy

Hello all;

Regarding the replacement of the Turbo Diesel Air Cleaner Bracket on my 1983 300D Turbodiesel, how does one remove the lowermost bolt to remove it? I tried a few things, and nothing worked. Special tool? Flexible socket extension perhaps???

ALSO, In messing around with it, I found that the little metal pipe that sticks into the bottom of the air filter housing seems a bit loose now. (think it returns oil to engine???) It definitely has play - moves several inches in fact. Looks like a nightmare to get to. Is some play normal? How does one tighten that up, if needed?

Thanks so much. All the best...

NSA - Hazleton, Pennsylvania

I am planning to purchase the biodiesel flexible fuel hose kit (BIO-COMFFHK), but was wondering how long (or gallons) I could run on bio-diesel with existing fuel lines become a it becomes an issue. Just found a good local source of bio-diesel and would like to take advantage of before receving the kit.

Thanks.

I browsed the forum topics, but couldn’t find a way to search them, so please forgive me if this question is redundant.

I just flushed my A/C system with Hecat Flush, replaced all o-rings (assembled with Nylog), replaced the compressor (used new seals), receiver/drier, expansion valve and the short hose that goes between the condenser & receiver/drier. I added the appropriate amount of oil upon assembly, and took it to the shop to have it charged with R12.

The shop said it held vacuum well and that the compressor was working properly. The pressures for the R12 are according to spec.

whats the story with the tire valve stems? i have a 1981 240d its time to change the treads. i noticed the valve stems have a hex lock nut should my local backwoods tire shop carry that style stem? or do i need to order a set up? do you carry them?

what should i replace the tires with (size wise) the origials were a 14 SR or something like that. what is the modern equivilent ? Thanks

ASP

My 1979 300D is still painfully slow and runs a little rough even after the valve adjustment, purge, injector rebuild and fresh oil and fuel filters all the way around. Is it possible to retrofit an entire turbo assembly with the intake and exhaust manifold (like the used one for sale on this site) on this non-turbo 3.0 engine? Isn't it the same block and manifold? I'm sure someone has had this idea before but I can't find it on any blogs.
Thanks

Kent, I am having trouble with one of my five injectors nailing. Could you lend some advice?

History:

I sold my 82 and bought an 85 with less miles. I noticed that it was running a little rough and was smoking pretty bad. I figured that this would probably be cured easily so I brought it in and did some services on it including valve adjustment, diesel purge, cleaned the ALDA lines, and ran some 85 plus in the fuel. It continued to smoke (though not as bad) so I thought next that it was probably the injector tips so I bought the injector tips from you and followed your instructions on how to replace them and clean the injectors. I reinstalled them and no dice, still smoking and it was then that I noticed the nailing (I cannot remember if it was doing this before. It’s possible).

I *think* I have seen some 300td wagons with rear seat headrests. My 1982 version does not have such things, but I am interested in them given that I often carry passengers in the rear seat.

(By rear seat, I am referring to the actual rear seat, not the 3rd row flip-up seat.)

Any info about obtaining / installing would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Dale

Kent, OK, I know I could have completely avoided this problem if I had only been using your instructions. But (& it always starts that way) I had replaced 2 sets of valve stem seals in the past 6 months using your instructions & I thought I knew the steps. Yup, the one biggest warning you give was what I did: removed the nuts on a stem & it dropped down. The cam is in the 1 o'clock position & the stem is about 3/4" from the surface.

Hi there. I recently installed new Viton injector return lines. I have driven at least 500 miles on about 70% veggie. And then all of a sudden today, after filling up on all veggie, the Viton lines started popping off. My wife was driving the car so it was a real mess. She would put them back on and the would pop off again. We dumped 3/4 of a tank during her short trip. There are two lines that kept coming off. Thankfully i kept my braided return lines and they are fairly new. Has anyone else had this problem? What is the cause? And is there a solution? Thanks, christopher

My Glowplug light just stopped working this morning. When it stopped working, it was hard to start, but after a while it started up like normal (except for the light). What is wrong and how do I fix it?
Thanks.