We are currently shipping our manuals and repairs kits to customers all over the world. Due the the complexity of international shipping rates and constant fluxuations of the US dollar we are not able to allow you to checkout on line.
We are more than happy to help you will your parts needs, even for items we don't have listed on our website. Just email us with a list of items you would like and we will email you back with a total amount including shipping charges. Be sure to include your EXACT addrress.
You can now quickly browse all our used parts by your chassis or by engine type. We are adding more used parts weekly so be sure to check back often. To make it interesting I will even at some valuable parts into the mix for only $10 if you can find them. Click on any of the link below to take you directly to the list you want to view:
Great to carry in trunk for emergencies. Nice case. No instructions included with this kit.
This kit includes:
My 1990 350SDL is blowing the A/C out of the defroster on day when it's over 80-85 outside. If it's a little cooler, the A/C come out of the dash vents as it should. If the hot day cools down, the climate control will switch from defrost to dash. Is this a vacuum pod problem or a climate controle unit problem?
Any guidance would be great.
Thanks!
I have a 1988 420SEL & would like to change the tranny fluid. I have been told that DEX III will work in this tranny. Can anyone verify that for me?
Thanks
Common wear point on high mileage 126 front suspension. This is the bushing that connects the inside end of lower control arm to the subframe on all 126 sedans and SEC couples from 1981 to 1991. This is for one side only. You will need to order 2 if you are replacing both sides.
My '86 560SEL with 63K miles has suffered serious injury and my mechanic and I disagree with how to proceed. What do you think? Here are the details.
One morning went out and started car, shifted into reverse and thought "something doesn't sound right". Shifted back into park and opened hood. Heard what sounded like valve tap but a much deeper and clunkier sound. Engine, however, is running perfectly smooth, no miss or shake and oil pressure is up and normal.
Hello everyone,
I am working on some of the final steps of restoring my 84' 300SD and one of the last steps in the suspension.
I have purchased a lot of the stuff already (from the source of course) and the rest my Benz insane brother gave me.
Here is what I am doing and replacing to get back the newer ride and handling like when it was new(er). Any advice or missing items, I would sure appreciate before I get things torn down and and advice or thing to watch out for would be good also.
Front Bilstein Comfort Shocks
Front wheel bearing replacement kit (both sides)
Front Rotors, pads,shim kits and sensors
Support rod repair kit
Lower ball joints
Tie Rod replacement kit
Upper control Arms (both sides)
Steering Idler repair kit
Steering shock absorber
1984 330SD
I have noticed that when I run with cruise on it behaves perfectly. However, if I signal a lane change with the cruise on the cruise control "pulses" the enginge speed exactly to the rythm of the turn signal. I can only assume electric but I am not sure as I am still learning MB behavior. It is kinda' funny actaully but is annoying (it is not voilent but it is like someone lifting the pedal and re-applying it)
Thoughts?
Doug in TX
Ok,
Sorry for asking but for the life of me I cannot figure this out and am affraid of putting the beams out of alignment.
On my SD (84 300SD 126) I have the fog lights that are seprate from the headlight in the enclosure. My driver side foglight does not work. It has no moisture in it and looks fine.
Is tha a repalcement bulb that can be repalced or it is the light itself as a unit?
Also I see all of the little plastic dial looking screwes, if not them how do I access that little guy to replace him?
Many thanks,
Doug in Dallas
I have an 84 300SD (126) and have a question. My shop that is helping me with my car said that my brakes work great (and they do) but the pads are worn. I have read here and in other helpful forums that it can be hard to tell whick brakes your car has (ATE,Bendix etc).
Is there a way I can tell what brakes I have so I can order the right replacement pads. I am all fired up now and want to do that on my own also.
Thanks in advance guys,
Doug in Dallas
P.S. I got the new primer pump and it was a super easy install. It works really great and does not leak. Thanks again for that.
Good used fan clutch. Fits all models that use the 5 blade aluminum fan. Will not work with the multi-blade nylon fans.
Set of complete used brackets with two horns that hold the smaller size electric aux fan to the early model 300SDs.This was removed from a 1982 models.
Good used working aux fan. Fits all 123 diesels and 1981 to 1983 300SD with the smaller fan installed.
Hey there.
Quickly I have an 84 300SD.
It is in VERY good condition, everything works (kinda scarry) AC,cruise,acutmatic climate control, I mean it is in really excelelnt shape all the way around.
139k miles and I bought it a few months back. I have done your diesel purge, paid a very reputable shop to do a vavle adjustment and they replaced a vacuum pot that was causing a little shifting gremlin.
Anyway all is fine except that a new glitch has occured. I started the car the other day and the idle was a bit rough. Nothing earth ratteling but I also noticed that there is a little smoke coming form the exhaust and ther used to be quite literally none that you could see.
My Single Tank system is in route from Mercedes Source. However, I understand it would be best to start with a clean tank and screen. Just how do I go about removing the tank to get a radiator shop to clean it out for me. Kent, do you have any manuals on this? I see the socket you have available for the screen, but what about the tank. Any help is appreciated. Rick
This is one cool pre or final protection fuel filter. I have been looking for something like this for a long time. Not only is it all metal, just the right size, has a 60 micron large cleanable screen, but it can be taken apart by hand... and that is certainly a big plus when you are out on the road faced with a plugged-up filter!
This question could well be the number one request we receive from new customers. The question seems to be popping up frequently now as many people are buying these old diesels for the first time hoping to convert them to run on alternative fuel. It is a great idea and can be a rewarding endevour IF you find the right car to begin with and are willing and able to repair it yourself.
CELEBRATE YOUR INDEPENDENCE! Kent has packaged together four of his most popular signature series products that will allow you to service, overhaul and tune your diesel fuel injectors yourself. All together these are key to helping you understand how your fuel injectors work, how to inspect and clean them, how to install new performance Monark injector nozzles, and how to balance tune them for maximum power and fuel effeciency.
These include the following items: Click on each one to read more.
Fuel Injector Pressure Bench Tester (designed and built by Kent Bergsma)
Diesel Injector Cleaning and Testing Procedures (manual written by Kent Bergsma
Running badly means poor performance. It happens sooner or later to EVERY diesel owner. The word "performance" is often used to describe how well a diesel engine runs once started. The principles discussed will cover all Mercedes diesels from the mid 1950s to the mid 1990s. Throughout this manual I will use this word to discuss a number of common problems. How performance is rated can mean different things to different people. In the following pages I will relate diesel performance to the following four criteria:
• How much power does it produce?
• What kind of fuel economy does it deliver?
• How smooth does the engine run?
• How much does the engine smoke?