83 300 CDT 617 Turbo Overhaul

Section 1 Turbo Removal shows compressor bolt removal when hot except for two at 11 and 6 o'clock. With respect to the difficult to access 6 bolt, why wasn't it loosened before the compressor bolts?
Does the turbo drain pipe interfere with removal?
I would prefer to break the difficult turbo bolts before the compressor bolts.

Forums

Diesel Engine Specific Aid

Chassis Model Number

W123

turbo drain tube

I used Kents kit on my 83 300SD, and I removed the drain tube first, and installed it last.I also replaced the o-rings on the air cleaner drain line, it's o-ring was wasted.

Turbo Overhaul

The bolt in question is at the 5 O'clock position.
Potential show stopper.
My solution
I used PBlaster on a hot but not operationally hot turbine section. Several applications. Several.
Broke 4 of 6 easily. One reluctant but came. Leaving the difficult 5 bolt.
After many error and trial attempts determined that the only access was from below and that the supplied 1/2 inch cut wrench wouldn't work.
Used a 6 inch (about) open/box. Finally got it into position and the bolt broke easily without prybar.
A better tool would have been the 6 inch with one inch box end cut off.
PB was very effective as one turbo bolt removed had moist threads entire length.
The compressor bolts were not a problem.
I removed the air cleaner support assy for visibility and the EGR heat shield.
The air cleaner support assy is a PITA lower buried bolt. One support arm broken to boot.
Reassembled for work near future.

Turbo Overhaul II

Completed, much improved throttle response below 2000 rpm, no leaks, low even hum by stethoscope.
Other:
Used PB, a little propane heat and standard plastic tipped hammer to break turbine section free from housing.
Used picks only to remove and insert snap rings. Tedious. Double check and rotate in groove to ensure they are in properly.
The dynamic seating ring compressor end broke on removal. Careful with the install.
Brass brushes for cleaning from HDepot paint dept.
Lots of time cleaning.
Turbo drain grommet just wouldn't go in using 2.5ft floor jack pipe as a persuader. Easy with no tube. Wrapped sandpaper around finger and eased innner surface. Cleaned and went in ok.
Place a drop cloth under the turbo to catch dropped bolts on reinstall.
The turbo will rub on the heatshield until all bolts are tight.
Compressor bolts go in with more difficulty than out.
I used a little RTV to hold the paper gasket in place.
I removed the air cleaner bracket for visibility and clearance. It's lower bolt install is difficult. Caution - the upper bolts are into aluminum. Cost three threads, chaser and time.
Bearing surface outer 50% of special alloy gone. Inner ok.
Based on carbon and oil accumulation, 126k miles, my opinion is overhaul 100 - 150k miles.