84 300SD ULSD better additive
Which is the better option as an additive to ULSD? A can of additive per fillup (lubro-moly, etc) or a gallon or two of vegetable oil per fillup?
Which is the better option as an additive to ULSD? A can of additive per fillup (lubro-moly, etc) or a gallon or two of vegetable oil per fillup?
I just Purchased Mercedes about two months ago with 104000 miles on it. Car was in need of some attention It did run, took a couple of trys to start and also had fuel knock.
I purchased and installed
new valve guide seals
Injector kit
glow plug update kit and filters
adjusted valves
After purging air out of injector lines car started right up and ran great all weekend with just a little smoke at idle.
Where is a vacuum change-over valve/solenoid located on said vehicle and what does it do? Also how can the part be tested out?
my 1982 240D auto transmission is upshifting way too early - I'm in 4th by the time the car is at 25mph. How much can I adjust the vacuum modulator to adjust this shifting? I recently replaced the VM because the car wasn't shifting at all higher than 2nd gear. The VM replacement fixed that, but now it's shifting way too early. i installed the VM as is out of the box. i know you can turn the key clockwise or counterclockwise, but i can't find any info anywhere about how much or how little. is there a spec that i should be shooting for on this?
1988 560SL:my hazard flashers, brake lights & turn signals do not work.
I have checked where the harness plugs into the red flasher switch & is ok.
I recently had this same problem with my 1982 300D & it had come unplugged at the red switch, reconnected & worked ok. any suggestions where I look next.Thanks
1988 560sl
I go about 15 miles and black smokes starts and gets progressively worse,
and shuts off. About 2 or 3 minutes I t does the same thing again.
have cleaned fuel system, new fuel pump and new air filter.
I need some help on this one.
Got the factory manual CD...200dpi scans...it sucks a little there.
My question is...Mercedes recommends 80 degrees C for compression checks...all of mine were done at stone cold (why we got rid of one car)...So, which one? As is predictable, the stone cold readings are dramatically different from the 80 degree readings.
While I have not yet done a comparison on the cars we still have, on the one we got rid of, the warm one was at 400 as opposed to 190 cold (on the cylinder that was low...the others were over 350). What does this indicate (a leakdown got on #1 got the compression to 400+...would seem to indicate rings.)?
I'm struggling with the decision over buying the injector rebuild kit (with monarchs) or simply buying the already rebuilt monarchs and returning my cores. I know some of you have gone down this road and I would appreciate any comments and/or advice you could give.
My worry with doing it myself has to do with leaks. It seems like competent folks who are following the procedures are still getting leaks. Has anyone experienced leak problems with the MB Source rebuild injectors?
Thanks and I'm going to make a decision sometime in the coming 2 weeks.
Kent,
On the rather rare cold morning here in Texas my 1983 300SD will start without any problem. However I have to keep my foot on the accelerator for a few minutes or it will idle down and die as soon as I take the foot off. If I remember to plug the engine heater in at night - no problem at all.
Any suggestions?
Thank you
Dieter
Hi,
I need to know the size of a fuel hose.
It's the clear fuel hose that returns fuel from the injector pump to the top of the fuel filter. The barb connection on top of the fuel filter and the banjo/barb fitting on the back side of the I.P.looks to be slightly smaller the the other banjo/barb fittings on the fuel filter. I have 5/16 hose on all my other banjo fittings and would think it would be the same size, but it looks smaller.