1984 300D Vacuum change-over valve?
Where is a vacuum change-over valve/solenoid located on said vehicle and what does it do? Also how can the part be tested out?
CHECK OUT our new parts and kits for 2007 to 2012 models CLICK HERE to view all.
Where is a vacuum change-over valve/solenoid located on said vehicle and what does it do? Also how can the part be tested out?
my 1982 240D auto transmission is upshifting way too early - I'm in 4th by the time the car is at 25mph. How much can I adjust the vacuum modulator to adjust this shifting? I recently replaced the VM because the car wasn't shifting at all higher than 2nd gear. The VM replacement fixed that, but now it's shifting way too early. i installed the VM as is out of the box. i know you can turn the key clockwise or counterclockwise, but i can't find any info anywhere about how much or how little. is there a spec that i should be shooting for on this?
1988 560SL:my hazard flashers, brake lights & turn signals do not work.
I have checked where the harness plugs into the red flasher switch & is ok.
I recently had this same problem with my 1982 300D & it had come unplugged at the red switch, reconnected & worked ok. any suggestions where I look next.Thanks
1988 560sl
I go about 15 miles and black smokes starts and gets progressively worse,
and shuts off. About 2 or 3 minutes I t does the same thing again.
have cleaned fuel system, new fuel pump and new air filter.
I need some help on this one.
Got the factory manual CD...200dpi scans...it sucks a little there.
My question is...Mercedes recommends 80 degrees C for compression checks...all of mine were done at stone cold (why we got rid of one car)...So, which one? As is predictable, the stone cold readings are dramatically different from the 80 degree readings.
While I have not yet done a comparison on the cars we still have, on the one we got rid of, the warm one was at 400 as opposed to 190 cold (on the cylinder that was low...the others were over 350). What does this indicate (a leakdown got on #1 got the compression to 400+...would seem to indicate rings.)?
I'm struggling with the decision over buying the injector rebuild kit (with monarchs) or simply buying the already rebuilt monarchs and returning my cores. I know some of you have gone down this road and I would appreciate any comments and/or advice you could give.
My worry with doing it myself has to do with leaks. It seems like competent folks who are following the procedures are still getting leaks. Has anyone experienced leak problems with the MB Source rebuild injectors?
Thanks and I'm going to make a decision sometime in the coming 2 weeks.
Kent,
On the rather rare cold morning here in Texas my 1983 300SD will start without any problem. However I have to keep my foot on the accelerator for a few minutes or it will idle down and die as soon as I take the foot off. If I remember to plug the engine heater in at night - no problem at all.
Any suggestions?
Thank you
Dieter
Hi,
I need to know the size of a fuel hose.
It's the clear fuel hose that returns fuel from the injector pump to the top of the fuel filter. The barb connection on top of the fuel filter and the banjo/barb fitting on the back side of the I.P.looks to be slightly smaller the the other banjo/barb fittings on the fuel filter. I have 5/16 hose on all my other banjo fittings and would think it would be the same size, but it looks smaller.
Hi Everyone,
I just finished fixing one problem only to get myself into another :-). I tried to install some of the new monark nozzles from mercedessource. I tried to be very careful and clean when reassembling the injectors after replacing the nozzles and thoroughly lapped all the mating surfaces with fine sand paper as described in the guide.
One thing I was not able to figure out is how to remove the old crush washers from the engine to replace them with new ones. Because of this I left them there. Any tips on how to remove these would be much appreciated as they seem pretty stuck in there and there were no hints in the manual I received.