Late 107 and 123, 126, 201, 124 Chassis Ignition Switch Easy Install Kit

Common cause for many electrical problems - Install yourself! - FREE tool included with instructions to install without removing lock from dash

PLEASE READ CAREFULLY BEFORE ORDERING! This switch replacement kit will work on all 107 chassis 380SL and 560SL 1981 to 1989, all 126 chassis sedans and coupes 1981 to 1991 , all 123 chassis 240D 300D 300CD 300TD from 1981 to 1985, all 201 chassis 190E 2.6 and 190D ( 190E 2.3 up to 1988 ONLY) and all 124 chassis from 1986 to 1993. PLEASE note YEARS carefully.....If you order in error switch there is a restocking fee.

Late 107 and 123, 126, 201, 124 Chassis Ignition Switch Easy Install Kit
Free Add-Ons Included:

Ignition Switch Replacement Instructions By Kent Bergsma - Download

Product Details


The primary electrical ignition switch on these Mercedes is located on the back side of the ignition key and steering lock assembly. Access is through the instrument cluster hole in the dash board. If you are not familiar with removal of your cluster please order my Instrument Cluster Removal and Component Replacement Guide available separately. No instructions for removal of the cluster are included in this kit.

A bad switch can exhibit the following symptoms: Intermittent starter motor contact (first check your starter motor and neutral safety switch at the transmission before replacing this switch) and/or intermittent operation of high amperage electrical components such as your heater blower motor,etc (first check heater motor operation and fuses before assuming it is your switch).

NOTE TO DIESEL OWNERS: It is very common to see black oil in and around this switch. This occurs when you have a leaking shut-off valve and engine oil is sucked up into the ignition switch. If you see this on your car I recommend you replace the switch BEFORE it fails on you. Since it is such an inexpensive part it is worth the preventative measures to replace it.

If your key is sticking or getting increasingly more difficult to turn, this is not usually due to failure of the electrical switch. It is more likely you have a worn key tumbler assembly and / or steering lock pin. Use the search box to view our listing of these other parts and kits.

Getting this switch in and out is difficult without removing the entire lock assembly. This is a challenge but can be done with the special tool supplied in this kit. This will greatly reduce the time it takes to complete the job.

Kit comes with new ignition switch, special tool and bit, and PDF instructions.


How to view the PDF digital instructions:

Once you complete the purchase of this product you will be able to download the digital instructions immediately when you are logged in and on your personal account page (click on My Account). Any PDFs will show up under My PDF Manuals. You will be allowed three downloads, so please save the file on your machine for backup.


Here is a picture inside a bad switch. Note the melted plastic due to arcing caused by bad contacts.


The new switch you receive may not look exactly like the one you remove from your car. Do not be alarmed. The new switch will work perfectly. There was a design change to make the new swtich easier to remove and install. Look at the comparsion below.  On the right you see the factory O.E. switch. Note the extra tabs on the center pin. That was to prevent removal of the ignition switch unless the key was turned on. Proved to be an overkill as even if you could pull the switch off you still can't get the steering unlocked without a key. The new replacement switch as viewed on the left does not have this tab making is much easier to remove and reinstall!!!

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