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I'm unable to use my windshield washer fluid. The end of my turn signal switch doesn't pull out; it seems to be stuck. Anyone else have this problem?
My mechanic wants to replace the entire switch at an outrageous cost, but I'm wondering if there's any way to take it apart and get it functional again on my own.
I have a 1982 W123 with about 240,000 miles. It runs great at normal highway speeds.
The problem(s) are first at low RPM it takes a lot to get the car going, it can be floored and barely start to move. The other day my wife parked on a hill and when leaving it took a long time for her to move. (transmission is good, just replaced) Power is excellent when rev's are up, it will actually chirp the tires when shifting gears.
My 1981 300CD has some leaking issues. I have traced the coolant leak to the fact that the radiator has bulged along the upper edge and is leaking fluid under pressure from the joint between the tank and radiator.
Are these repairable? What else uses the same radiator or one close enough that I can cross reference to try to find a good used or inexpensive new rad?
Month ago My rear brakes went on fire! They told me since the pads were sticked to the disc I need to replace the calipers. Well I did it. I installed brand new calipers change the brake fluid and went driving. 2 miles later I was on fire again. Now they told me it is the cylinder or the booster, but I don't know what should I do!. I need help. please.
A note on putting an Optima battery into a Mercedes. If you can dig up an Optima 34R instead of the standard 34, the posts will be in the correct position for the Mercedes cables. The battery comes with a couple of adapters. If you drill out the driver's side battery clamp stud and put a long bolt through the new hole, you can use the type 78 (looks like a 'C') adapter hold the battery in. You will need to add an insulator to the '+' cable as the OEM setup uses a cover on the battery.
I am trying to replace the mechanism that holds the rear of the hard top in place on my 83 380. I loosened the nut to remove the shaft but there is a plastic piece that fits over the locking mechanism that will not allow me to remove the shaft. Does anyone know how to take it off (and replace it when reassembling) without destroying it?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
I have and run for the last ten years a 1985 300TD wagon, about five years ago I replaced the heater fan motor. Now the fuse seems to be blowing frequently. Sometimes I can get it to last a few days, then only a half hour or so. I did notice in the fuse panel someone before me, conveniently painted a little red dot by the heater fan fuse. The fuse in there is a blue one and that's what I've been replacing it with.
Thanks,
Jonathan
Hey guys and gals.
1984 300SD
142k miles
I have had it about 8 months
I have changed both fuel filters and purged about 5 months ago.
It has a fairly fresh oil change and filter about 3 months and 3500 miles ago.
It starts and runs very easily and well.
It kicks down and shift correctly (sometimes a little jerk on upshirt but really minor)
All my vacuum stuff works
When I drive the car it start and warms up to 1/4 the way above 80deg on the temp gauge and stays there if it matters.
My 82'300d was not charging so I replaced the battery removed the alternator had it tested and it checked fine. The tension nut was missing and the bolt was gound down from rubbing on the pulley so I replaced the bracket, bolt, nut and installed new belts. It started right up and everything seemed to be fine. That was 10 days ago and now it's not charging again. Any suggestions? I'm stumped, any help will be greatly appreciated.
At the time that I bought my '84 300D recently, the spedometer was inoperative (pegged to max) and a few of the other instruments did not work (although the odometer did work), so I sent the whole cluster off for repair and bought a used cluster in good operating condition (for $25!) and installed it. Now the repair service has sent back the old one saying it can't be repaired (they only work on later electronic instruments). Problem is, my car has 124,000 actual miles on it, as indicated by the original odometer; and the replacement cluster came from a donor car with 277,000 miles on it.