1981 300td vacuum problems
When isolating the vacuum pump it takes about 3-4 seconds to build up to 23hg. Is that too long? I have not been able to get a brake booster that holds vacuum is my pump just not able to keep up?
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When isolating the vacuum pump it takes about 3-4 seconds to build up to 23hg. Is that too long? I have not been able to get a brake booster that holds vacuum is my pump just not able to keep up?
I have a newly acquired 1980 300TD and the first thing I wanted to do was change the transmission fluid. The stick was reading 2 or 2 ½ inches above full at temperature before I did anything, but outside of some issues with the 3rd to 2nd gear kick down, it was well behaved. The gasket was hard and the fluid was very old which is not good news, but the car has suffered fair neglect and I was not too dismayed. The issue of immediate concern was that I retrieved only 6 qts. of fluid from the system, including torque converter. At present I have replaced the fluid to the level I found it at, but am not driving the car. I might guess that the dipstick is either a mismatched junkyard replacement, or maybe the dip tube has been modified or maybe the AT fluid was overfilled.
Just want to verify these issues are covered in the new guide for pre-80 transmissions...just had the transmission throttle linkages adjusted and added the recommended LucasOil. After a few hundred miles, the transmission now flares between 2-3rd and redlines for many seconds before a shift from 1st to second (but only sometimes). It also seems to engage two gears simultaneously sometimes for a short time.
onsimple vac overhaul kit for late model pump with 3 check valves does it matter which check valve goes on top or the 2 on bottom,are they all the same,i know top check valve faces away from engine and bottom face engine with flat surface out,but i did notice to dimples in 2 check valves,are they supposed to go on bottom or does it matter?
Have run into a real problem on my 85 300TD...apparently my right rear wheel bearing seized at some point, shattered the race (well, two pieces) and the new race won't press in (just slides in by hand...no interference fit.) Do I need a whole new wishbone back there? Kinda looks like it....can these even be had?
Given the rust issues...I'm wondering if it's time to jury-rig it by JB-Welding the race into the carrier to get the race in and relegate the car to short trips and focus on my W124.
Thanks.