W123, Body

My idle cable knob recently broke. The main part that is actually grabbed and turned snapped off, but the very base is still attatched. I was just wondering if anyone had some information on how to replace this part. I bought the actual knob to be replaced, just don't know how.

Hello
I have single tank conversion that dies at idle in loop mode but runs fine when under acceleration.
After it dies I have to switch the valve to return and purge the system of what seems to be air then I'm fine until the next time I let it warm up at idle. It doesn't have this problem when the valve is on return. I thought it might be a filter issue but I have no loss of power when going down the road.
Thank you this forum has been a big help.
Rob

I am having problems getting my WVO system to work. It has worked well for over a year (20,000 miles!), but now only works on diesel. I've traced everything out and found that the booster pump (FRB5) back at the rear tank won't pump WVO. It pumps diesel at 10 gpm but only pumps WVO at about 2 gpm. I replaced the pump with a new pump and it works identically. I removed the pump and tested it on my bench with short hose lengths with clean WVO and diesel running directly off of a battery and it is still the same.

I was trying to do the simple task of replacing the front brake pads on my '82 300 TD wagon. I was able easily able to get one of the pads out, but the other one, the one closest to the car, I was unable to get out. When I would try to push the current brake pad back into the caliper to make room for the new thicker pad, it seemed like the pad was frozen in place. It would not budge. I tried tapping on it with a hammer, blasting it with dynamite and it would not move. Is there something that I am missing, or does this mean I probably need to get a new set of front calipers?