Some of Kent's Mercedes Benz Collection on Sale! CLICK HERE to view all.
Kent
My diesel starts great idles on all 5 no miss but when you start going down the road she misses intermittently at lower rpm quits at mid and high range rpm until she is up to temperature then she's fine she doesn't smoke and she has power up the kazoo any idea's? I have run 2 can of diesel purge set the valves no change. Bad injector maybe?
Thanks
Todd
My family is preparing to move to Delaware from Oklahoma. As I understand it, Delaware is in the "Rust Belt." I'm wondering if there's anything I can do to prevent rust problems before they happen. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
Collin
Local header pipe bought is too long for my Mercedes. How do I tell if my Mercedes a is a calif spec Merecedes and do you sale subject header pipe? VIN AB53A6FA254054
I'm having an issue with my A/C compressor belt on my 85 300td. It keeps coming loose.
When I bought the car 2 months ago, the belt was missing completely and I was not sure if the A/C worked or not. I installed a new conti belt. The a/c works perfectly except after 200 miles or so the belt comes loose. Yesterday I checked the belt and now it looks slightly chewed up on one side.
I'm not sure if the problem is A/C pulley or something else.
I recently purchased the Vacuum Troubleshooting kit and have begun to tackle some minor issues with my wagon.
Right off the bat I find something not specified in your manual.
I started with a vacuum pump test and my gauge is reading 16.5 inHG. When I remove the line from the booster it reads 19 inHG - neither seems REALLY low, but are below the 20-23 inch range.
I have two questions:
1. Is there a way to determine if my checkvalve is leaking versus a slow leak in the pump itself?
I am going crazy trying to figure out why the charge indicator, parking brake and brake wear lights on the dash are staying on? The engine runs fine. I searched the forums to no avail! Please help!! :(
Have a blown radiator which I pulled- How do I do an engine compression check to rule out cracked head or blown head gasket w/o the rad in place? Doesn't make sense to reinstall the radiator (-it's blown) or install a new rad just to test. Any ideas will be welcome as none of the mechanics down here seem to have any clue...