123 300TD Wagon SLS to standard shock conversion ??
I am considering changing my 85 wagon from sls to spring and shock. What springs and shocks do I need to order? Are there any other recommendations you might have ? Thank you.
Some of Kent's pristine Mercedes Collection on sale now. CLICK HERE to view all.
I am considering changing my 85 wagon from sls to spring and shock. What springs and shocks do I need to order? Are there any other recommendations you might have ? Thank you.
Driving down the interstate on my way to a gig (I'm a musician)- First noted the BATT light come on-Which I assumed correctly to be a shot belt- but also noted the engine was overheating.This is a new (3yrs old) OEM BEHR radiator I installed) Pulled over-antifreeze all over, radiator cap intact,but the top of the radiator was tilted about 20 degrees from horizontal, tilting up at the engine side, exposing the rubber tubular gasket around the top, and the metal mesh underneath. Obviously bent up somehow and in doing so disconnected the plastic housing.
Making my question simpler. I am removing the engine plug to install the block heater. I am using a 19mm 1/2 inch drive Allen an extension and a 20 inch breaker bar. I have put some torque on it and it does not budge. I do not want to break anything. How much torque is safe? Any suggestions?
Thank you
I am having problems with my Injection Pump Shutoff Valve...when I first start the car up the Valve is in the upright position..when I shut the car off it stops down and shuts the engine off. Then when I come back to restart the car a few minutes later..and turn the key to start..the engine turns over but will not start because the Shutoff Valve is down, but when I immediately turn the key off then back on, it comes up and starts the car immediately.
I dropped my car off at an auto body shop for a minor repair.
When I picked up the car I noticed the knob that adjusts the clock was mysteriously broken off. I found the knob, but it does not look like it can be glued back on.
Do I have to replace the entire cluster? Can the knob be replaced from behind the cluster?
G
The steering box on my 280E is leaking fluid. It appears to be from the seal near where the pitman arm attaches to the output shaft. My local Mercedes specialist tells me that this is a time consuming and expensive repair involving a strip down and replacement of the (many) seals within the box. Although I intend to get this done in the next few months, is it worthwhile in the interim flushing the system and adding a power-steering stop leak product to the new fluid, or is this just a waste of time?
I bought an 87 300 SDL with a 617 diesel (from an 83 sd) transplanted into it,everything is compatible except some of the wiring harness.the problem is the A/C compressor has the older 2 prong terminal which I need to match up to the newer 3 prong terminal,(which has no current)A mercedes mechanic said the extra terminal is from the speed sensor they started using in 1986.Somehow I need to trick the AC relay on the firewall into thinking its getting a signal... Does anyone have any experience with merging these two together?
n/a All wipers have quite working. New wiper motor on rear hatch, new relay, and horn does not work. Horn is on the same circuit and fuses were good but I replaced the wiper/horn fuse any way. Rear wiper quite working first, then windshield wipers began failing intermittently and now are completely non functional. Ground issue?
After replacing wiper relay and wiper /horn fuse and checking for operation system did not function, then after setting overnight and starting in the morning wipers and horn worked, and have worked ever since. Is there a reset function happening here?