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I have been driving cross country in my 1981 240D (automatic transmission) and I find that when I am going up steep hills that I hear this loud knocking noise begin when I press the gas pedal. This noise disappears when I am on flat ground or going downhill. Is this normal? Or is this a sign of a tranny thats going out? Things seem to be operating normally apart from that. Thanks
I have a noise that sounds like an air leak in my interior/dash board. The noise is a squeeky loud air noise and happens when the car is moving more than 60 MPH, however if I let off the fuel pedal the noise will stop. It appears to be directly related to throttle position as the noise will get louder as I accelerate and will quiet down on deceleration and will dissapear altogether when just cruising below 60 MPH. Any idea what this is and how I can trouble shoot. Any help would be very much appreciated.
Hi all at Mercedessource and site users. I am in the process of elimating the leaks in my front and rear windshields. The leaks in the rear not only make my trunk smell musty but I think they may be the reason my rear dash has buckled on the side of the dash where the first aid kit sits. (I have nothing heavy in the first aid kit.) My question is; how does that rear dash come out? And if any one else has had this problem, what course of action did you take? Are there new dashes, or covers available like the front?
'84 300D, 385K mi. WVO the past 25K mi. 5u final filtering (has a functioning boost pump). I slowly lost power over a 1K mi period. Did a valve adjust, fuel sys. complete flush-out, filter changes and new monak injectors. Checked for air leaks into fuel sys., none. Checked Turbo waste gate was opperation correctly, yes. Ran straight Dinodiesel the past 20Gal with a bottle in injector cleaner (for 50 gal.) Ran a qt of injector cleaner straight. (this isn't the diesel purge you have, but I just got some and haven't used it yet.) Cold Compression read, 400, 305, 400, 340, 380.
Swapped bad engine ( timing chain failure) w/ used running engine (125k). Donor engine has been sitting for 2 yrs. Project car has been sitting for 4 yrs. Did the swap w/ mechanic friend who started engine in my absence before I could change filters, flush fuel etc. Car started and ran rough for 5 minutes then stalled. Has started and ran roughly a few more times. Now will not start. Changed filters, cleaned screen, tried to start on purge only, bled lines, replaced glow plugs w/ ones from bad engine ( they were new @ time of death). Wants to fire but won't.
Intermittent vacuum loss 1984 300SD : Car won't shut off, no power brakes etc. Goes like that for a few days or more of driving then everything works normally for months on end...Back to the same problem. Occasionally when I'm heading for the engine shut off the car will slowly die before I get to it. Driving me crazy. Building good leg muscles though. Thanks Jon
Just got a sweet deal (I hope) on an '87 W124 300TD wagon. The SLS pump went dry a year ago, so I'm assuming I can just replace the pump, fix the leak and the system will work again, as it worked before it went dry? Or does further deterioration occur besides the pump when it runs dry?
I shall definitely buy the guide after I have the car.
Hi all. I have the typical water leaking in the front windshield and rear due to the seals being 25 years old I am guessing. My question is: The rubber on the outside of the car under the shiny trim piece, is that a seperate seal from the rubber that is on the inside of the car that the glass sits on? Or is it all one big gasket?
My Uncle is driving my 300CD out of town and he called asking if I've had a problem with turning the key and it not starting, which I haven't. The car has always started as long as it isn't in gear, which isn't his problem. He said that it would start sometimes on the first turn and some times it was taking multiple try's. Seems like it might be the ignition switch. Any suggestions on trouble shooting?
