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I recently parked my car on a steep hill with the passenger side downhill. When I returned to my car there was fuel leaking down the street and inside the wheel well in the trunk. I unclogged the rubber piece that lets water out of the trunk and drained the fuel out. I use biodiesel and I don't see any worn through parts. Any idea how the fuel got into the trunk, all seems normal now but I wanted to make sure there weren't any safety issues.
The key had been sticking when I first tried to turn it over. One morning while in a rush to get the kids to school I put a wrench to the key to make it turn. My problem went from not starting, to not turning off when I turn the key off. The key now turns VERY freely and the steering wheel doesn't lock. I am trying to replace the whole lock cylinder but it doesn't want to leave its home. The cover sleeve won't even budge. The marks on the sleeve(0,I,II) have never lined up with the notch on the cylinder. Is there an alternate route to removing the lock cylinder? Or does anyone know how to get me out of this jam? It is very disheartening to pull into a parking lot proudly driving my old MB, only to pop the hood and press to e-stop to turn the engine off.
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This started out as an intermitent problem....but now just doesn't work at all.
We have a SL320 Roadster and the radio turns on (everything lights up) but no sound....no sound from CD player & weather channel as well.
The power antenna does not go up and that's a sure sign that the radio won't make any sound.
It doesn't seem to be sending a signal from the radio to the powe antenna & amp in the trunk.
The only thing we have done so far is check to make sure all connections are intact...which they are.
Any ideas?
Does anyone have any tips on how to adjust the throttle linkages on a 300sd? I messed up the tie rod that sets the idle the last time I removed the VC to adjust the valves, I want to bring it back down. While I'm at it, I'm hoping to find out what all the other linkages on the valve cover do and see if I can give the car a little "tune up". The tranny hasn't been shifting quite right after I messed up the idle too.
I have a 1977 240d The brake pedal has gotten hard to push over the last three days. Now I cant press the pedal at all. I checked the brakes at the wheel and the all look fine. I checked the master cylinder but the fluid level looks fine. I checked the booster and there is very little vacuum on the line, Could this be the problem. Is there a certain amount of vacuum that needs to be on there. Also is there a way I can bypass the vacuum on the booster to see if this is the problem.Am I chasing my tail is there some other avenue I should look into. let me know
Has anyone used Krytox to preserve and protect the weather stripping around doors and windows? I bought the thicker GPL205 and now think I should have ordered the thinner 105 for this application.
any thoughts?? Thanks
Howdy. I'm considering installing a STC conversion to my 1980 300TD wagon, but have a few questions before I do so. When you are running on WVO with the STC 1000 and all the upgrades (Boost Pump, Heated Pathway, Heated filter), how does the engine not need to be flushed out with diesel before shutting down to have proper starting the next day.
