W116, BENZ AID - COMMON QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

starting problem

I have a 76 300D that I am having a strange problem with. Usually the car will start without any problem two or three times, and then it will appear that the battery is too weak to even make the car turn over, although the headlights and other electronics still seem to be at full power. I have had the alternater tested and it seems to be working fine. I took the battery back to Wal-Mart and their machine (as well as AutoZones) found the battery to be good.

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Restoring black plastic door handles

I found out on the net,how to restore your black door handle and mirrors,that overtime armorall has turned white. Good old peanut butter.Apply leave on 5 minutes or longer,and wash off.It lasted so far 4 washing,and 6 weeks. To expensive to try on tires. Makes everyones hands smell good too.Just kidding. Peanut Butter,the oils must be good for plastic,I might try peanut oil. Might be cheaper. Nate in TN P.S. Don't use if you expect someone in your car,with allergy to peanut butter.Be neat if a car jacker was allergic.

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grease for a window regulator

This is about window regulators, specifically on my 1980 300SD (W116). The drivers side window regulator is broken, and MercedesSource has a new replacement for it, but no instructions available with the new part. After examining the broken regulator, I believe that a lack of grease (or lubricant) on the regulator slides contributed to the failure. Further, my other windows are moving slow or binding up, and I suspect that lack of lube is responsible for that slowness as well. Trouble is, I don't know what grease to use on the regulator mechanism. Grease isn't just grease. It's formulated to work at a certain temperature, under specific conditions, and I'd bet the grease on a window regulator is altogether different than wheel bearing grease, for instance.

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Diesel cigar shaped fuel hose

Hello forum, I have just purchased a 1981 300D - non turbo, 100,000 original miles and I am hoping to run Biodiesel, not svo/wvo. In looking over the fuel lines, my mechanic told me that the thick bloated looking line immediately before the canister fuel filter was that shape as a "damper". I haven't seen any kind of chem resistant hose in that odd shape. Is there a specific replacement for this piece or will other hoses serve the same function? Thanks, Dave

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1975 230 parts help

I bought a decent, very original 230 sedan a couple weeks ago. Overall the car is in pretty good cosmetic condition but the engine needs help. The compression is below the minimum at around 100 to 115 pounds. It does run but it's pretty weak. I've searched online but haven't been able to locate a source for parts to rebuild the lower half. Pistons, rings, bearings seem to be a rare commodity for this engine. Is there a source I've missed or are the parts just difficult to come by?

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Driveline or engine noise? Help.

The date is March 12, 2007. I get a strange sort of metallic noise that seems to be temperature aggravated. It seems to be engine RPM related, but I can't be certain. All winter I heard it, most at AM startup. I don't think it goes away at speed but can't hear it over other engine and road noise. It seems load related. At 25 mph in town it could be aggravated by light throttle pressure and sort of disappears on no load with a matched speed and throttle. I live in Fallon, NV, so it was cold. The last couple of days I have been in Blythe, CA, and it has been very warm - about 90.

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1969 300SEL won't pass emissions.

The Carbon monoxide was way too high, so I took it to an import specialist and he's saying that I need a new fuel injector pump. It's not the fuel pump, but the injector pump. The mechanic said that these are not very adjustable and I need a new one - which he said costs around $1600. Yikes! Does anyone know any tricks to adjust these so I don't have to buy a new one? Or maybe the problem with the emissions is somewhere else?

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