I have sold my 240 D with manual transmission. The buyer wants to rent a tow dolly and tow the car about 300 miles.
As long as the transmission is in neutral of course, is this ok?
(Front wheels off the ground)
Installed the auxillary fuel pump and it works greats. My question: I also have a marine style bulb hand pump installed, when I bypassed the stock hand primer pump last year. Should I remove it? Can it handle the pressure the auxillary pump produces? The bulb pump seems pretty plump but it's holding, no leaks. Will it eventually burst or can I just leave it alone for now? I'm planning on a 700 mile road trip next weekend and would like to wait to replace it if I can. I've ran about 150 miles since I've installed the auxillary fuel pump and no problems.
Thanks,
Keith
Hi: I have an '87 300DT with the 124 chassis. Has been running fine. The problem: the gauges for the coolant, oil pressure, and fuel all dropped to zero. The combination relay (part 201 821 00 47) is vibrating and making noise. Replaced the relay with the identical part with no improvement. Fuses are all good. I am about to test the sender units for the above guages. Any ideas?
Thanks much,
Pat
I am looking for a used power steering box for my 1978 300cd. What steering box interchanges with it??? Is there a arebuild kit for the one I have. It has a lot of play in it and I can't seem to tighten it up by adjusting it. Any suggestions???
emal me at
neatstuffgvz@aol.com
Thanks
My 1982 240 D will loose power shortly after warming up, particularly noticable when attempting to accelerate or go uphill. During these times I can manually downshift the automatic transmission and the engine speed does not respond. Once I crest the hill and reach 45 miles per hour there is a sudden surge in power. I have changed all filters, and two different diesel mechanics in our area cannot figure it out. The car is a wvo conversion, and the same phenomenon occurs wether on diesel or veg. On a cold morning or when the car is first started this does not occur. Any suggestions?
Hi all; Was doing my first valve adjustment and am convinced that the #6 valve has a stripped lock nut. I'm concerned that the valve stem itself is stripped, but when I tighten down the top (adjusting) nut, the locking nut just glides with it, and I CAN get a ton of clearance for the rocker arm. What's involved in changing the locking nuts? Do you have to remove the cam, etc? I know that either (or both) the threaded valve stem or the nuts can strip. Typically, does the nut give out first? Hoping to hear that I don't need to pull the cylinder head.
!985 300CTD;150,000miles. During a 7 hr trip at highway speed the oil pressure indicator needle stays at a constant "3". When reducing speed & coming to a stop or idling the needle bounces (is not steady) at just under "2" & a "thumping/knocking" sound comes from the gauge area but is not heard when the engine rev's up. The engine runs quite well & pulls strong. The oil/filter was just changed & I have used synthetic diesel 15w-40 in the vehicle for the past two oil changes@5000 miles per.
I need a manual speedo drive for my transmission, I currently have the electronic version. First, can these be swapped, and second, does anyone know where I could get one. It's an 83 300d.
Thanks,
Brett
Got in a discussion with some fellows about using Sea Foam to clean out carbon deposits in my m103. Almost sounds like snake oil! Anybody have any experience with this product? I usually just run it hard and get it hot.
Concept sounds interesting.
Thanks
Dan