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I read with interest your assessment on the use of Trans X. I just ordered a filter kit for my 1982 240D automatic. I have faithfully serviced the transmission over my 19 year ownership of the car. I have dealt with an occasional vacuum leak and modulator adjustment. The car has 230K and aside from a slight premature upshift to 4th gear the car runs and shifts fine.
I am replacing the injectors in my 77 240d with rebuilt injectors bought from this site. After removing the old injectors I did not find any heat shields in the pre-chamber, or at least it seems there are none. There is certainly nothing that can be picked out using the little angle pick sent with the socket kit.
Is it possible that the car did not have heat shields? Or am I just not trying hard enough to get the old ones out?
Here is a link to a picture showing one of the pre-chambers. Can someone tell whether I am looking at the bottom of the chamber?
My wife's venerable 368K mile 1984 300sd decided not to start and left her stranded. It cranks slowly but will not start and the dash lights flash while it cranks. Followed the normal systematic diagnostic approach; the battery was 5 years old, it was replaced with new,replaced the glow plug relay fuse and it has 12v power, the number 13 fuse was blown, replaced it, replaced the voltage regulator, wiggled and manipulated the shifter to see if it was the neutral safety switch, checked and rechecked all connections make sure they were tight and connected.
Brakes very hard to engage..takes significant foot power. I was told that the vacuum booster is not working. Can this be repaired, or must be replaced? Any ideas one way or the other-where the part could be obtained?
thank you.
1986 300SDL 603 trans has a "shift kit" style bark the tires fishtail 1-2 shift and it's not pleasant on the down shift either. ALL suspension parts replaced (german when possible)Tans filter fluid changed lucus tans fix added it leaks alittle (B-2 piston?) it's not the pan. torque converter drained when fluid changed. What should I do next?
I was taking care of a few things before my monarch nozzels, balancer, and trans cooler lines come. Here is what I did I bought a yellow top optima put it in heard pop okay? tried to start it no glow light no antenna. Smoke from the alternator (it's okay to laugh now more laughs later too!) the voltage reg. was hot and stayed hot so fried right? Pulled it out it was going to go anyway carbon stacks real low. the only thing down where the smoke was is the alt. Here is what happened if you look at the front of an optima the positive is on left neg.
Well sure enough, my very clean and tight TD's radiator neck failed while driving and I am glad I am an assiduous gauge checker. When the temp started heading up above 100 I pulled off the road and found the hose off and quite a mess. There was enough of the neck remaining for me to reattach the hose and make my way home.
I am wondering if I can use the reinforcement kit and a piece of ABS or some such to fashion a new radiator neck instead of buying a new radiator. I'd much rather spend that money on replacing the rear window gasket of the CD.
Thanks for your help.
So, I learned the hard way how not to do things today but then figured out an easy way to do it (isn't that always the case). I ordered the front end rebuild kit (well worth it, the parts are great) and took everything apart, pressed the bushings out and was ready to reinstall. I had a mercedes mechanic help with the ball joint pressing, get a jig or find someone with one. It's a pain in the butt. The first time I installed the bushing I used a press with a slightly cockeyed die on it and messed the whole thing up. The bolt wouldn't even go through! Luckily these kits come with two and since this one didn't even look that bad I'm going to just leave the other side alone. There are two methods to getting these things off
1984 300 CD
I added a Mercedes Source electric fuel pump, no other fuel system mods. After inital installation the pump would audibly cycle slowly at idle, and pump speed would aduibly increase with engine speed.
suddenly, the pump now runs at high speed constantly, idle or at highway cruise, no detectable difference. Is this a problem or normal?
Also, any ideas of a material to use to isolate the pump from the chassis to lower the audible pumping sounds?
My 1985 300TD Turbodiesel runs on SVO. The car has good compression and runs great. The car gets to 60mph in about 13s which I believe is to be what's expected from a well tuned specimen. My aim now is to improve the performance beyond that. I have installed some of the performance-enhancing modifications recommended on this web site, including Monark injectors and a fuel boost pump. (Of course I also have Kent's performance tuning manual which has been very useful;-)