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I've been struggling with a problem of my engine not reaching optimal engine temp under normal driving conditions (summer driving in the mountains always does the trick). On my normal, mostly flat drive to work I barely maintain 165 degrees in winter temps of around 40-50 with heaters going (which just barely keep me warm). Here are my specs:
The radio in my 84' 300d is a Becker Grand Prix Electronic and when I start the vehicle the radio comes on, then cut in and out every 2 seconds consistently. Now if I turn the radio power button off, then turn it back on a couple seconds later it works fine. I want to stay original, any advise? Thanks.
i need to replace the engine in a 1986 190e with 2.3 4cyl 8valve engine. can i use a 87 long block in a 86? or better what year used egines can i use in my 86. i plan to transfer all the fuel sys and accesories.
I've been running WVO for three years without too much smoking. Now I have lots of white smoke at idle and low speeds after commute home from work. I've noticed this only in the evenings on my way home and not on my way to work, even though the conditions are very similar. This started a little after replacing the injectors with Monarchs that were professionally pressure tested. The other correlation is the recent onset of cold temps around 40-50F. A few other pieces to the puzzle:
I need to buy all new tires and found Falken Sincera SN-828 175/70R14 tires for only $49 each. These tires have good ratings compared to other tires available on discounttire.com but wondered if anyone else has experience with them on these cars as they are very inexpensive. What tires and size do you recommend for this car?
I have been having intermittent hard starting with the engine warmed up. The problem only happens after the engine has warmed up to 80-90 C. The car has new glow plugs decent compression (300+ average)and starts right away when it's cold (below freezing).
The car always starts eventually but I have to crank for awhile 10-30 seconds. Same problem when running on diesel or veg and with oil just changed or ready to be changed. I don't think that I'm getting air in the lines and again it's intermittent so sometimes it starts right up when warm?
I have what appears to be the typical water leak which comes in through the front passenger side leading to puddling in the rear passenger side. I have cleared the drain holes under the hood and repaired the rust under the battery using the miracle paint and cloth method, however I still have the leak. It appears to me that I should replace the front windshield seal based on what I have read on this web site. Is there anything that I have overlooked or other areas that I should check to stop this leak?
My heat has stopped working just in time for the cold weather! The temperature control unit works fine except for the complete lack of heat (the buttons all seem to do what they're supposed to). The heat gauge on the dash shows that the engine is getting hot, but none of the temp. control settings (defrost, bi-level, etc.) make hot air blow. The air coming out of the system is the outside temp.-frigid! I recently rebuilt the vacuum pump after the diaphram tore and a little oil got in the lines. But this sounds like an electrical problem, no?
I recently got the Mercedes factory HVAC manual, but I don't know where to start with this problem. I have the vacuum and wiring diagrams and now have a rough idea of how the system works (it's complicated!).
1991 560 SEL - I have the engine out and would like to replace the firewall pad but the 4 pieces that comprise it cost a total of $970 from dealer! I've checked Dynamat but would rather get an OEM replacement. Dealer said that the padding glues onto firewall, I also heard that the padding is held on by rivets & screws....any advice?
Thanks
Before valve adjustment, car idled fine. Immediately after valve adjustment car idled fine. Probably after 1,000 miles of driving, car idles rough at a stop in drive or in reverse but idles fine in park. Another change is that it has gotten cold. This was a florida car and not used to the cold. I did install a block heater from you which helped with cold starts.Turning the idle adjustment knob on the dash to the left increases RPM and helps idling.
1.How do I adjust the idle so it will run right again without having to adjust the idle knob on the dash?
2. Is it ok to drive the car with the idle adjustment knob turned to the left a little bit?