Slow off the mark, 1984 300D Turbo Diesel
I recently purchased a 1984 300D Turbo diesel and it was running beautifully. Then I converted to bio diesel (changed the fuel lines) and ever since I have been having issues.
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I recently purchased a 1984 300D Turbo diesel and it was running beautifully. Then I converted to bio diesel (changed the fuel lines) and ever since I have been having issues.
My 1984 300sd will keep running after the key is out of the ignition. I do have a new shutoff valve to replace, but have not gotten to it.
Well, I figured out why the engine cuts off some times before I get the hood up. When I'm getting out of the vehicle I tapped the brake and it killed the engine. I do this with regularity now. Has anybody heard of this? And if so, is it still my "shutoff valve" or a vacuuum booster to the brakes?
I've followed along numerous posts on this subject and followed instructions where I could, but my car is still a DOG.
I have performed all of these fixes yet not realized much difference:
-Cleaned banjo bolt
-Replaced air/fuel filters (many times)
-StarBrite anti-fungus fuel additive
-Replaced some vacuum connectors (not the 3-ways, just the small pieces - I'm poor, but working on it)
-Replaced brake booster vacuum line - it had 2 broken nipples.
-Replaced vacuum switch levers (the two plastic things on top of the valve cover - whatever they're called)
Screaming sound coming from the dash which appears to be related to speedometer cable. Any suggestions on if it is worth trying to grease cable or replace? Is there a way to disconnect to stop noise?
I have a 1973 450SE with 100k miles and ever since I bought it (over two years ago) it has had a slight two or so second delay before engaging when I put it into reverse. This morning when I went to back out of my driveway, I was stuck in some snow so I figured I'd rock out of it. However, once it was clear my car was free, it was no longer engaging at all when put in reverse. The reverse lights still come on, the seat belt buzzer still lets me know if my belt is on while the engine is engaged, but it does not engage at all. There is no grinding and the fluid levels are within range.
Have 82 240D ST sedan and am looking for a reliable, inexpensive and certified classic MB mechanic in the area who might be able to repair my A/C system....have replaced condensor several times without luck...works for a day or so, and then konks out....no leaks evident...compressor appears to be working properly....just can't get it right.....thanks.
I just blew up the manual transmission in my 1982 240d (what a terrible noise and vibration). I found a 1979 that might work and I'm just wondering if it would be compatible.
Have a nice 1982 240D four-speed, standard sransmission (floor shifter) with about 140K miles on it. Recently experienced big problem with shifting from one gear to another. Thought it was a bad shifter and secured a replacement assembly unit which has been installed this past week. Have replaced all external bushings (except for white plastic bushing inside actual shifter unit)and everything appears to be tight...not loose. Can replace internal shifter box bushing but I don't think this is the problem.
I was running B100 bought from a local shop and it started to gel way earlier than I was led to expect: around 35F! My filters really got clogged. Now I'm down to about B50, but it's still a problem at around 30F. I know, I know: Stanadyne filter with heater-coil would help. In the meantime, what about additives or other techniques for melting those solids. This is key because the biodiesel may gel at one temperature but it doesn't necessarily melt again at a slightly higher temperature -- it needs help to melt. What if I bathe my filter and prefilter in kerosene for a while?
The lights in my 240D have been going out one by one it started with the blinkers then moved on to the dash lights and now i have no highbeams and only tail light. Any suggestions?