Some of Kent's Mercedes Benz Collection on Sale! CLICK HERE to view all.
Since my 240D's alternator clearly wasn't charging anymore, I figured I first better replace the voltage regulator. The old regulator was clearly shot, and I got the new one in. Now the alternator is charging fine, but it is also making an intermittent loud squealing noise - especially when accelerating. Any chance this noise will go away or diminish as the new brushes "break in", or is it time for a new alternator?
I recently changed the glow plugs and reamed out the carbon on my 1984 300D with 129,000 miles on it. At this time, I also did a valve adjustment as I was told all of this would help with hard starting in the winter. Well, it has helped and the car has more power also. The valves were very tight and I had never adjusted them over my 15 years of ownership. Anyway, now my fuel mileage seems to have gone way down. I used to get around 22-24 with daily driving and around 28-30 on the highway. On a recent trip, I was getting 20 MPG on the highway. Any ideas as to why?
Looks like I am in need of a starter change....woke up this morning and my 83 300SD will click but not turn over. It is usually sluggish on cold mornings, but early this AM I turned the key to nothing. I have a starter coming in and wanted to know if there are any special techniques or tools required to change this part? Looks like I am going at it from the underside, any help before I get dirty would be appreciated.
Brad
Quick question...what engine/fuel supply parts are common between these two? Browsing through the catalog, looks like the injector crush washers are different, glow plugs are different, mail fuel filter different.
My main question...are the injector nozzles & injectors the same (but perhaps w/different pressures?)? If the injectors are different (visually, hardlines look smaller on OM603), are at least the nozzles the same?
'87 300TD Wagon, OM603 6 cyl, trap oxidizer removed
'85 300TD Sedan, 5 cyl, no trap oxidizer (federal version)
file:///C:/Users/Norman%20Sumner/DSCN4878.JPG
Kent,
Do you know if these grommet/spacer can be replaced or do I have to fabricate something to fix whatever they are called. In case the picture does not work. The items I want to replace are part of the throttle linkage. The linkage comes straight from the firewall to a forked plate. The forks go through two slots, and the grommets keep the forks aligned. I was wondering why I had so much movement in my peddle before I received any response for the engine.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again,
My 1985 300D starter seems to momentarily stay engaged on the first start of the day. Very short grinding noise after the key is released as if the gears are not disengaging on the starter. Rest of the day seems to be fine,only hear this noise if car has sat several hours or overnight. Looked thru questions on this forum and could not find anything similar. Vacuum related? I just started the self-mechanic routine, so thanks for any input.
JMD
Which is the better option as an additive to ULSD? A can of additive per fillup (lubro-moly, etc) or a gallon or two of vegetable oil per fillup?
I just Purchased Mercedes about two months ago with 104000 miles on it. Car was in need of some attention It did run, took a couple of trys to start and also had fuel knock.
I purchased and installed
new valve guide seals
Injector kit
glow plug update kit and filters
adjusted valves
After purging air out of injector lines car started right up and ran great all weekend with just a little smoke at idle.
Where is a vacuum change-over valve/solenoid located on said vehicle and what does it do? Also how can the part be tested out?
Got the factory manual CD...200dpi scans...it sucks a little there.
My question is...Mercedes recommends 80 degrees C for compression checks...all of mine were done at stone cold (why we got rid of one car)...So, which one? As is predictable, the stone cold readings are dramatically different from the 80 degree readings.
While I have not yet done a comparison on the cars we still have, on the one we got rid of, the warm one was at 400 as opposed to 190 cold (on the cylinder that was low...the others were over 350). What does this indicate (a leakdown got on #1 got the compression to 400+...would seem to indicate rings.)?