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I'm still troubleshooting a constant vibration. In gear, out of gear, standing still or moving. I have a constant vibratiion beginning at about 1000 RPM and does not go away at any RPM and gets downright noisy at highway speeds. It has a chug-chug sound that can be felt in the ears and the butt. More annoying than anything, but I'm sure eventually things are going to begin to vibrate loose on an otherwise solid vehicle.
I'm hoping someone can readily identify this issue before I have to break down and shell out for a mechanic due to the urgency of getting it resolved... My ASTM-certified-biodiesel powered 1982 W123 300D-T is having issues with starting up first thing in the morning. It has gotten bad over the past couple of weeks to the point where it won't always fire up on the first try or two. When it does catch, it "chugs" really hard, smokes light-to-medium gray like a chimney and generally sounds grumpy for a bit before smoothing out.
I am trying to retrofit an idle speed adjustment cable from a 116 300SD onto a 126 1984 300SD. (The 126 did not come with one.) Besides the obvious reason of variable idle speed control, the original tang that holds the idle adjustment screw on the side of the injector pump has broken off, thus making idle non-existent. The car in question has 363,000 miles and I really don't want to replace the injection pump just for the idle control. Currently, I'm controlling the idle with a long bolt attached to the throttle linkage, the end of which is resting on the side of the valve cover. This repair has actually worked for about 5 years now, but I would really like to try the cable.
Was about to replace my alternator but heard I should check the voltage regulator first. I'm not sure how to access it or what to look for to see if it needs to be replaced. Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated!
The symptom is unburned fuel at idle. A light puff-puff of black smoke -- not heavy, but visible, at 700-750 rpm with car in gear and A/C on. Much less smoke when the tranny is in neutral, A/C off, and engine is idling at 800 rpm. The presence (or absence) of an air filter has no effect. Except for this bit of smoke, which is embarrassing at stoplights, the car runs and shifts great. 0-60 in 14.5s, and I measured 10 psi boost during hard acceleration. On long trips getting 20-22 mpg (milage verified with GPS).
I'm not getting charging to the battery. I have replaced the voltage regulator on the alternator (the old regulator brushes where about worn out), but did not get any change in the charge to the battery. At idle, voltage to battery shows 11.9v and dropping. When rpm increased, voltage will increase to 12.35v max, than right down below 12v when back to idle. What am I missing?
Ooops.... While cleaning fuel injectors and installing new Monark nozzles I may have (repeat MAY have) inadvertently mixed up two of the lower body parts. The injectors are cleaned and assembled and look terrific. I am wondering if I am ok to install them and if there's a problem it will be obvious; or, if I need to proceed to things like bench testing or other procedures. That would be sad. Ideas?
Cheers, George
I ran a little low on coolant the other day (not sure why...), and the engine got hot (almost 200 degrees according to the gauge on the dash). after i filled the radiator, i noticed that oil had started leaking from somewhere on the engine. a can of brake cleaner revealed that the oil is leaking from under the oil filter element housing cap. so i changed the oil and filter and filter housing cap o-ring ('cause it was time for an oil change anyway), and tightened it down really tight, and it is still leaking. A LOT.