Some of Kent's Mercedes Benz Collection on Sale! CLICK HERE to view all.
Husband did a valve adjustment a week ago and the car idles really nice. Problem? Now, we have very little power, slow acceleration and the transmission will not downshift even with pedal pressed to the floor whether driving on flat street or going uphill. Help!!!
Dummy of the year award - overheated 300SDL engine climbing mountain pass. Engine stopped while coming down other side. Now freely turns over but will not start. How do I find out if I only blew the head gasket and (probably) warped the head or caused more serious problems? I'm looking at either new/rebuilt head or possibly replacement with rebuilt 3.0L diesel engine.
Thanks for the help - I'm just getting started in the MB world using the hard way (as usual) rather than easy way.
Many of us with older turbodiesels are just plain tired of having to replace the air cleaner bracket, and especially the mounts that hold the air cleaner in place. I've found a possible alternative that COMPLETELY REPLACES THE ENGINE MOUNTED FILTER HOUSING AND BRACKET with a K&N filter on the end of an intake tube attached directly to the turbo inlet.
The rules prevent me from including a link to another website, but I suppose the rules do not prevent stating the other source. It's Wade Performance Products.
I am trying to buy my first 1984 300 SD, and I don't know what is most important to be aware of to make a final judgment of whether to buy or not. Can you give me some advice?
I Have an 1983 123,Mercedes Benz Coupe diesel and Would like to know How to turn the idle up 900RPM. Any help advise would be helpful.e-mail Brubaker72@gmail.com
I have an 84 300sd which I can't do anything to settle down the shaky engine during the rough idle. I ran 3 cans of diesel purge and that seemed to help while running Diesel Purge, but when back on WVO or diesel, the engine starts shaking. Is time to clean the injectors? What am I missing?
Air, fuel filters are new. Valve adjustment done. What next?
Thanks!
Hello,
My Monovalve, the one that is bolted to the firewall and allows coolant into the heater core, has been stuck wide open, I removed it and it seems to be able to move now that I have cleaned it up a bit, is this item repairable, or should I just buy a new one....
Thanks
The vehicle is a 1980 300SD, 116 Chassis with nearing 300K miles. My problems began with a slight delay in the engine shutting off with the key, and has progressed to no door locks and I have to raise the hood and manually shut the engine off. I have also noticed the engine is running rough at idle, but smooths out at about 1000RPM. I intend to troubleshoot the vacuum system, but can't tell from the descriptions which of the guides I should purchase: the vacuum door lock one, the my engine doesn't shut off one, or the larger, apparently more comprehensive diesel survivor's guide.
I just purchased this car. It starts quickly and idles smoothly but has no power and will only go about 30 on flat ground. I removed exhaust pipe with the cat and muffler, thinking the cat was plugged, didnt help. the previous owner said the turbo got hot and caught the underhood insulation on fire but he got it out quickly and with the exception of 2 vacumn lines it didnt hurt anything. turbo area emits a highpressure air sound, not a turbo whistle,at idle and it gets louder under power. Any suggestions? Thanks Tom Postscript 1st benz Ive owned so have to catch up.
I forgot to fill up the new fuel filter with diesel before installing. I realized my mistake after cranking the engine a few times with no engine start. I took the filter off and filled it up with diesel fuel and reinstalled. I still cannot get the car started, if the car does fire it only runs for a second or two then dies.
My car was running fine just before the filter change. I have not refueled recently. I have a WVO kit installed but have been running on diesel for the past week due to lack of WVO.
Is there a way to check for air in the fuel line?