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I just replaced my differential mount. Yes, it fixed the rear sag problem!! One of the 4 13mm bolts that hold it into position on the subframe snapped off inside the subframe while removing the old mount. Is there a way to get that piece out of the hollow subframe member so I can replace the bolt (assuming the threaded insert is ok...I suspect it may be rusted, thus the break)? Are bolts 3 enough to hold the mount in place?
My 2002 E320 with 128k miles drifts a little left and right at highway speeds. I don't hear any knocking from the suspension over hard bumps. Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks.
I just purchased the listed car. 160K. Runs fine. The car is currently on the rack at a local shop. Needs brakes. Slight pulse on hard stop. The front caliper bolts are seized. I am writing to ask if you know if the rotors will come off with the caliper in place once the pads are removed? It looks like a close fit but I thought I would ask. If not do you know any tricks to get the bolts out?
At about 30MPH a whirring sound starts from the back end. Volume and pitch increases with speed... independant of road conditions. The noise only accurs when the drivetrain is under load/acceleration. While under load (as on a long grade), down shifting does not affect volume or pitch.
No clunkiness. Tire tread wear is "normal". SLS is working properly.
Any thoughts? Pinion bearing...Drive Shaft support bearing? I do not have a ton of experience in this area.
Thanks in advance!
My stock tire size is 195/70 14 ~ 24.75 inch diameter. I was considering moving up to 205/75 14 ~ 26.1 inch diameter or 215/70 14 ~ 25.9. This would, in essence, give me the effect of an overall higher read end ratio. It feels as if the engine is revving more than it should at 65 - 70mph. Is this advisable? Also, what should the expected mile-per-gallon be for this year/model assuming everything is running correctly, and a conservative driving style? Thx, Bill
Over 200,000 miles, transmission never overhauled. I can always go from Park to Reverse and then to Drive. But sometimes while in Drive with my foot on the brake, I cannot get the shifter to go into Neutral to get to Reverse or Park. I move the shifter around but to no avail. This situations happens infrequently.
Another observation, when the shifting appears to be working, when I put it in Reveres, the whole body feels like it drops. And when I put the car in Drive it feels like it raises up. Normal/not normal, I don't know?
In hopes of not throwing expensive parts at a problem, over 60mph the rear end of my car starts to vibrate.
I have verified that the rear stabilizer link set needs to be replaced. Could the vibration in rear over 60mph be the bad stabilizer link set?
Also, the boot closest to the differential is torn on the axle assembly (driver’s side) and needs to be replaced. What do you think that means? Could the torn boot be a clue that the axle assembly is out? What would a bad driver's side axle assembly feel like at 55mph?
Can hydraulic level control be replaced with standard heavy duty springs and shocks? 300TD 1985
The driver's side tire of my wagon wears rapidly. I first noticed this not long after I purchased the car in 2008. Had it aligned and the shop said it really was not that far out of alignment. Since the tire continued to have the same wear pattern, the alignment job didn't fix the problem. Wondering where to start the hunt for the culprit. Control arms, bushings, etc. I've not done any work on the suspension of any car, so have no ideas here. Thanks, George
Is there a trick to removing the front ABS sensors for cleaning other than removing the single bolt? The sensors do not readily come out and I don't want to apply pressure and break them.