I have an 89 300e and when it's cold it acts like a carburated car, you can floor the gas and it just won't go. Any suggestions would be very appreciated. Thanks
Good afternoon
After a year or so of fooling around with a beater 190D, I bought a 1992 300D 2.5 Turbo with 162,000 miles. I've had it for two days, so this is a new marriage for me. The squawks so far are:
I AM RESTORING A 1980 450SL AND I HAVE A QUESTION CONCERNING EXHAUST. I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT IF YOU TAKE THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER OUT, THE FUEL MILAGE WILL SUFFER. I HAVE ALSO BEEN TOLD IT WILL RUN MUCH BETTER WITHOUT IT.
I own a 1982 300 SD. Among the few things I would like to fix is the intermitent heater. I have read about many possible problems, ranging from a faulty climate control unit, to bad brushes on the blower motor, to a faulty amibent temp sensor. Is there a way to tell what the problem is for sure before I tear in? The blower usually comes on when the car is first started (not always), then usually shuts off with in a few minutes (again not always.) The temp wheel usually sets the temp of the air comming out (once the motor has warmed up), Since it has been cold, it has been blowing warm air (when it blows.) The selecter buttons work great. A direction would be appreciated.
I have recently replaced the motor in my 80 240d with an 83 motor. The clutch on the new(er) motor was in such nice shape I did not replace it. Is the throw-out bearing from my 80 incompatable? Things grind a little when the pedal reaches the floor.
Whats going on? I've a 1984 300D.
The heat works as normal for a few minutes after startup, then all vents close.
The only setting that gets air back through the vents is AC/Cold. However when rolling the dial back to hot the vents close again.
I am having some problems with my vegetable oil fuel conversion. I know that
it is not one of your conversions, but I was hoping you could help me. The
company I bought it from did not even return my phone call.