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In the midst of the 100,000 mile rebuild kit, and can't get the center beraing loose on the turbo. How in the h e double hockey sticks does that thing shake loose? Everything else has gone without a hitch so far. I'm deathly afraid of busting something banging on it. Help?
Thanks!
ps turbo is off the car due to the head gasket R&R. Figured since I had it open might as well rebuild the turbo and the starter...
Ben near Detroit
In hopes of not throwing expensive parts at a problem, over 60mph the rear end of my car starts to vibrate.
I have verified that the rear stabilizer link set needs to be replaced. Could the vibration in rear over 60mph be the bad stabilizer link set?
Also, the boot closest to the differential is torn on the axle assembly (driver’s side) and needs to be replaced. What do you think that means? Could the torn boot be a clue that the axle assembly is out? What would a bad driver's side axle assembly feel like at 55mph?
Hello, The hazard lights in my benz failed suddenly, the hazard switch in the center console has power and is lit when driving lights are turned on, when the switch is depressed the light goes out and they do not flash, all other signal lights work fine, any thoughts?
Can hydraulic level control be replaced with standard heavy duty springs and shocks? 300TD 1985
The driver's side tire of my wagon wears rapidly. I first noticed this not long after I purchased the car in 2008. Had it aligned and the shop said it really was not that far out of alignment. Since the tire continued to have the same wear pattern, the alignment job didn't fix the problem. Wondering where to start the hunt for the culprit. Control arms, bushings, etc. I've not done any work on the suspension of any car, so have no ideas here. Thanks, George
Just bought a one-owner '83 300D with 116k verified miles. Service book was regularly stamped. Car starts instantly, idles perfectly runs great. Has 2.5 bar oil pressure at idle. But it has a definite knock. Took it to the local independent MB repair facility. Diesel mechanic has three 300D's himself. I used my infrared remote thermometer and showed him that the injector body of #1 cylinder was showing just 120-degrees. Other four 170-175.
Injector was removed and replaced. Good compression--in the 300's. Haven't had chance to recheck temp. Knock is still there.
Now I am told it is most likely a rod knock! I don't have the money to start rebuilding the bottom end of this engine. Plus I am surprised that a rod bearing would go with this low mileage.
I have a 94 S350D with the 603.xxx engine. Is there a injection pump timing procedure for these models? I have a lot of the symptoms you describe for the older models.
P.S. Just rebuilt my injectors with your kit. It went flawlessly. Your kit and instructions were fantastic.
Jay