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Just completed a compression check on my high mileage 240d.
#1 120/200
#2 180/320
#3 190/340
#4 180/320
Number one is not looking so great. The test was completed with the engine cold. I did try adding oil and the change was marginal 130/220 on number one.
The engine runs smooth with little smoke at start up. What my next step? Pull the head and have a look at the valves?
Thanks for your imput.
The compression tester and booklet were excellent.
Hey everyone,
I cannot for the life of me find the turn signal relay on my 1979 300D. My left signal flashes twice as fast as the right one and the bulb in front is very weak while the rear one is bright. Both bulbs are brand new and all the connections look good. I also replaced the hazard button on the console and the problem remains.
I have the new turn signal relay from mercedessource but I can't find where it goes. It definitely doesn't go under the console like some of the posts I've read and it doesn't seem to be anywhere under the drivers side dash. I traced the wiring from the steering column to one relay but its a much larger 8 or 9 pin and that seems to be the only relay under there that the turn signal wiring goes through.
n/a
Can anyone out there direct me to the location of any relays or inline fuses that might be the cause of my blower motor not working. I know the blower motor works having run 12 volts directly to it. Additionally, I have no power when checking the motor leads with a volt meter when everything is hooked up. I originally thought the problem was in the block or coil resister beneath the master cylinder/vacuum booster. Changed out both resisters and still no power to the motor. The fuse looks good (number 11, I think in the fuse box compartment.)
I have the electric fuel boost heater installed and ready to go, but where is a 20 amp fuse in the fuse box to tap into? Every fuse I see is less than 20 amp. The highest I see is 16 amp and the EFBH calls for a 20 amp.
Thanks,
Keith
I have been using my 1980 300sd to pull a small enclosed trailer (w/ nosecone, 1000 - 1500 lbs). I have had no problems with the transmission whatsoever doing this for the past 80 thousand (163,000-241,000) miles running on veg, but this vehicle was just totaled by an suv so I am looking for a replacement.
I would like to have a wagon for the extra space but I'm worried about putting too much strain on the transmission. I'm also wondering if the SLS will be a good or bad thing. I was hoping it would be good as the 300sd tended to sag a little with 100lbs on the hitch.
How do you remove the battery tray? I removed the two bolts, but it still seems to be attached to the inner fender.
I am having a meltdown here all the usual suspects are rounded up. My 1986 300SDL (that I have spent more time working on than driving no kidding) is a great car has me perplexed. It started and ran fine one day the next started and idled fine but gives me about 100RPM increase when I push the throttle with foot or under the hood so all the linkage is moving the way it should.
When reading across the two contacts on the 02 sensor with an ohm meter, should the reading show open or close contacts.(trying to determine if te sensor is shorted or not) please help. Thanks
diy ball joint replacement - 1985 300td Sedan
Currently squeeks like an old couch! Just embracing the diy arena after the local mechanic quoted 3.1 hours labor for each joint (it it true???) Have ordered replacement ball joints. Any helpful hints or how to is appreciated - have searched the site. Your input is valuable - is this doable for the novice, novice, first timer?