March is transmission month. Full 12-Part 722.3 / 4 Overhaul Video Class on Sale CLICK HERE to order.
I'm still troubleshooting a constant vibration. In gear, out of gear, standing still or moving. I have a constant vibratiion beginning at about 1000 RPM and does not go away at any RPM and gets downright noisy at highway speeds. It has a chug-chug sound that can be felt in the ears and the butt. More annoying than anything, but I'm sure eventually things are going to begin to vibrate loose on an otherwise solid vehicle.
I'm hoping someone can readily identify this issue before I have to break down and shell out for a mechanic due to the urgency of getting it resolved... My ASTM-certified-biodiesel powered 1982 W123 300D-T is having issues with starting up first thing in the morning. It has gotten bad over the past couple of weeks to the point where it won't always fire up on the first try or two. When it does catch, it "chugs" really hard, smokes light-to-medium gray like a chimney and generally sounds grumpy for a bit before smoothing out.
My 1983 300SD with 350,000 miles tends to "wander" / weave from side to side at highway speed when on a stretch of road that has grooves (running paralel to the road).
Would the cause be most likely a worn out steering gearbox or the idle arm bushing (or both). I had difficulties before trying to adjust the nut on top op the steering gearbox and finally settled on what was tolerable because I could not achieve ideal.
I replaced the steering shock absorber 3 years ago.
Any thoughts? Thanks, Dieter
Can anyone who has mounted the FM 100 filter/circuit boss on their 300sdl please post a few pictures of where and how they mounted it? i am tempted to mount it closer to the firewall than most conversions that is have seen. I am considering mounting it to the engine side of the divider toward the midline of the fuse box (right in front of the steering column.)
are there any problems accessing any other vital parts if the system when mounted in any particular spot? Any help would be welcome.
Scott
I am trying to retrofit an idle speed adjustment cable from a 116 300SD onto a 126 1984 300SD. (The 126 did not come with one.) Besides the obvious reason of variable idle speed control, the original tang that holds the idle adjustment screw on the side of the injector pump has broken off, thus making idle non-existent. The car in question has 363,000 miles and I really don't want to replace the injection pump just for the idle control. Currently, I'm controlling the idle with a long bolt attached to the throttle linkage, the end of which is resting on the side of the valve cover. This repair has actually worked for about 5 years now, but I would really like to try the cable.
I am in the process of installing the Elsbett conversion kit to single tank and was looking for the best place to cut in the electronic relays. I looked at the fuse box and see seven relays. Looking at the manual I discovered one is the Compressor relay (code J) but I can't find the rest. I find a K an L an F and a B and one each alongside the F and B. Any help would be great.
Thanks,
Kevin
I am having trouble with the A/C compressor on my 1984 300D.
It appears that there were several hose-block connections and compressor connection configurations.
I ordered a new compressor (for a different car). It came with the adapters and instructions. Unfortunelty, I'm having trouble understanding them.
I can't get the compressor to stop leaking at the hose connections in the rear.
Hello Kent,
I recently purchased one of your manual window regulators for my 240D. I am finally getting around to the install. What (if any) lube should i use to lubricate the regulator? I have some white lithium grease that I keep around. Is that suitable? Or none at all? thanks
Aaron
Was about to replace my alternator but heard I should check the voltage regulator first. I'm not sure how to access it or what to look for to see if it needs to be replaced. Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated!