78 300D does not want to go into reverse
Started by not liking to back up , then reguired more rpms to engage , now won't go in at all sometimes , then other times goes in but is very weak
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Started by not liking to back up , then reguired more rpms to engage , now won't go in at all sometimes , then other times goes in but is very weak
I ordered this kit from Mercedes Source. You have to solder in the wires into this kit for a new electrical switch for the drivers power seat adjustment. But it didn't come with instructions. I have done soldering before but I would like a few tips on how to do this right the first time without messing anything up. For one thing, there is no crimping involved right? Aside from a soldering iron, I shouldn't need any special tools right?
It looks like I might have a vacuum leak. After turning off the engine via the steering column the engine still runs for about 2 seconds. If I press on the diesel pedal the engine will actually speed up a little then shut off. I would would like to know: Is the system under positive pressure or negative pressure? How do you test the fuel pump stop diaphragm to see if it holds pressure? Also the door locks still work but the brake booster isn't as effective recently as I have been having these problems.
I found that there is a lot of engine oil droplets coming into the intake manifold...and think it must be bad oil seals in the turbo.
I am working through 350SDL issues and found the solid hose broken that goes between the air intake (pressure side) and the mechanical accuator that opens the waste-gate. I am assuming that this has caused the previous drivers to drive it over-pressured. Would that impact the turbo oil seals so that they could now be leaking into the intake air? Are there other things I should check knowing this has happened?
Indicator lamp stays on. 10.5vdc at #5 glow plug. Wondering what steps to take next.
Thanks!
Nicole
I have an 81 300d that I was running on BIO. It was loosing power and stall under a load. SO I removed the injectors cleaned replaced nozzles with monarks, bench tested and re-installed. Car ran then stalled and will not start. I drained the tank and filled it up with diesel. I replaced the fuel lines, filters and lift pump. Also replaced the glow plugs with monarks. Then did a valve adjustment. Changed the o rings on the injector pump, checked ALL banjo fittings and lines, replaced copper washers.
I have an 83 300d. I removed the panel below the steering wheel and found a vacuum line simply resting against the back of my brake pedal. I raced the line and it runs through the firewall into the engine compartment. It is connected to the "T" that is on the bottom of the transmission modulator on the rear of the fuel pump. The other side of the "T" runs to the lower right side of the 5 way connector located on the valve cover. That is if it is viewed from the front. Does anyone know where this vacuum line is supposed to go.
I've been experimenting with different electric fuel pumps and fuel line plumbing, running straight WVO. Last night an electric booster pump I'd installed down by the tank burned out (again! argh-can anyone suggest an electric booster pump that can handle WVO without burning out!?), and the car ran dry (I was trying to limp it home).