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I have a 1982 W123 with about 240,000 miles. It runs great at normal highway speeds.
The problem(s) are first at low RPM it takes a lot to get the car going, it can be floored and barely start to move. The other day my wife parked on a hill and when leaving it took a long time for her to move. (transmission is good, just replaced) Power is excellent when rev's are up, it will actually chirp the tires when shifting gears.
My 1981 300CD has some leaking issues. I have traced the coolant leak to the fact that the radiator has bulged along the upper edge and is leaking fluid under pressure from the joint between the tank and radiator.
Are these repairable? What else uses the same radiator or one close enough that I can cross reference to try to find a good used or inexpensive new rad?
Month ago My rear brakes went on fire! They told me since the pads were sticked to the disc I need to replace the calipers. Well I did it. I installed brand new calipers change the brake fluid and went driving. 2 miles later I was on fire again. Now they told me it is the cylinder or the booster, but I don't know what should I do!. I need help. please.
A note on putting an Optima battery into a Mercedes. If you can dig up an Optima 34R instead of the standard 34, the posts will be in the correct position for the Mercedes cables. The battery comes with a couple of adapters. If you drill out the driver's side battery clamp stud and put a long bolt through the new hole, you can use the type 78 (looks like a 'C') adapter hold the battery in. You will need to add an insulator to the '+' cable as the OEM setup uses a cover on the battery.
I have and run for the last ten years a 1985 300TD wagon, about five years ago I replaced the heater fan motor. Now the fuse seems to be blowing frequently. Sometimes I can get it to last a few days, then only a half hour or so. I did notice in the fuse panel someone before me, conveniently painted a little red dot by the heater fan fuse. The fuse in there is a blue one and that's what I've been replacing it with.
Thanks,
Jonathan
My 82'300d was not charging so I replaced the battery removed the alternator had it tested and it checked fine. The tension nut was missing and the bolt was gound down from rubbing on the pulley so I replaced the bracket, bolt, nut and installed new belts. It started right up and everything seemed to be fine. That was 10 days ago and now it's not charging again. Any suggestions? I'm stumped, any help will be greatly appreciated.
At the time that I bought my '84 300D recently, the spedometer was inoperative (pegged to max) and a few of the other instruments did not work (although the odometer did work), so I sent the whole cluster off for repair and bought a used cluster in good operating condition (for $25!) and installed it. Now the repair service has sent back the old one saying it can't be repaired (they only work on later electronic instruments). Problem is, my car has 124,000 actual miles on it, as indicated by the original odometer; and the replacement cluster came from a donor car with 277,000 miles on it.
Ok - I installed the kit - have no oil leaks and no audible vac leaks this Sunday. Monday I was running 90% pure diesel with 10 % veg oil. I drove over 75 miles with no problems whatsoever. (As it was such a small proportion of veg oil I did not believe I needed to switch on the heating element.)
This morning the temperature probably dropped to about 45 degrees. I live in the Bay Area and usually it does not get too cold. Again thinking that the high proportion of diesel would again not justify the use of the heating element I started and drove off. My car seemed to have about 40% of the power it normally has and 50 yards later stalled and came to a halt.
I checked all lines and the clear in line filter and saw no debris or leaks.
