A/C doesn't work, the DEF is the only switch that works, used a jumper wire & started the compressor, works fine. There is no power at the switches on the dryer & no power at the switches on the CC console, also, the vacuum hose that goes into the 6 point distributor does not hold vacuum, what are some things I can check before taking drastic measures.
It seems that I have a leaking fuel injector on my '84 W123; there is diesel fuel in a damp puddle all around this one injector after driving @ highway speeds. Is it possible (for me)to remove & correct this? If so, do I need to buy a whole new injector now? Thank you, Kieran-
Hi
I am new to the forum and am very interested in all the great resources I see available.
I have one question, I have an 85 300d and just aquired a 80 240d parts car and was wondering if anyone had attempted to convert the automatic temp control system back to a manual system like the 240d has? Both rigs had A/C.
thanks
Greetings from Columbus, Ohio. My 1982 Mercedes 300D Turbo Diesel has a glorious Mercedessource DTC system! Only problem I am experiencing is that the alternator can not reliably keep up with the electrical demands. What ampere level would be a good upgrade (150 amp to 300 amp?) and do you have any specific brand/model of alternator you recommend? Trying to eliminate the risk of producing too many amperes as well (if that is even a concern).
Many thanks and keep on Greasing!
--- Chris Konik
I have an '83 W123 & have just noticed a fast drip coming from the area of the automatic transmission cooler line on the right/passenger side - along the engine & at the very point where the line bolts to the oil pan. I assume that this is the same problem mentioned in the "Alert" section.
Question is, aside from the preventative fuel hose replacement, what sort of actual "fix" can be applied to stop & solve the leak?
Has anyone fully repaired a leaking AT cooler (metal) line?
thanks, Kieran-
NJ
My 1983 300td has an inoperable tach. It periodically will jump around wildly when the engine is run for an extended period at high rpms. Is this consistent with the wire or the amp being faulty? Is there some good way to determine which is faulty wihtout just randomly replacing both? thanks
I have removed the engine & auto trans from a 1983 (built 12/82) 300TD. After removing all bell housing bolts I expected to be able to slide the transmission away from the engine. No luck. It appears to be stuck at about 3/4" to 1" seperation. Is there something I missed to release the trans or does it just need to be pulled apart with more force?
-Mike