Some of Kent's Mercedes Benz Collection on Sale! CLICK HERE to view all.
Howdy. I'm considering installing a STC conversion to my 1980 300TD wagon, but have a few questions before I do so. When you are running on WVO with the STC 1000 and all the upgrades (Boost Pump, Heated Pathway, Heated filter), how does the engine not need to be flushed out with diesel before shutting down to have proper starting the next day.
I’m trying to identify the transmission model in an early production 1977 - 123 - 300D? The transmission has no vacuum lines running to it only electrical wiring (driver side) and a mechanical connection (passenger side). The car has been owned since new, so it’s the original transmission.
VIN# 123 130 12 019871
Eng# 617 912 12 006662
Trans# 123 270 0701 006832
This is a new one on me...I just bought another W123...and after the second real drive for any miles..I heard a noise in the back the sounded like a cable wrapping around something...then the right rear wheel locks up...then lets go. My kids were 15 miles behind me, so I pulled over. We assessed the situation and the noise was coming from the right back wheel....clank, creak, clank at slow speed. I thought it was a CV shaft falling apart or the parking brake drums, but it was from the wheel area. But, the rotor still looks good on the outside.
We want to share with you some of restoration and repair work that has come out of our own shop. Our goal is that this information can both inspire and instruct you to tackle needed repairs on your own Mercedes. Nothing excites us more around Mercedessource than to have someone write to tell us that for the first time they have successfully worked on and repair their own car! Success breeds more confidence which in turn leads to more success. We want these articles to give you that same feeling of success.
I was wondering what the best way to remove stock undercoating is for the at home mechanic?
Also, I seem to have a pretty large rust problem. I have Miracle Paint and would like to attack it from top and bottom but it seems like one of the screws holding down my passenger seat is rusted to the body. How do I get it out? Of course it's the right rear screw, the hardest to reach to begin with.
Yikes! I didn't realize the W123 uses DOT-4 and I've been using DOT-3. I have only topped off on DOT-3 (about two ounces, maybe 3 between two cars that were a little low), not bled and filled...so...the question...can I just bleed out and refill w/DOT-4? Or would it better to vac out the resovoir, put DOT-4 in and then bleed/refill. The brakes on one have been getting worse after sitting overnight...the first stop is an adventure if I forget to pump once before stopping (goes to nearly to floor).
Thanks a bunch.
I got $3K out of the insurance company and got to keep the car....though the title is now branded SALVAGE
After getting the settlement, we decided to get a minivan (gasp) for the wife. it is an older Honda Odyssey, and we got it for a great price. I now drive our '89 Volvo 245 and the Mercedes has been sitting in the driveway. Now, I need the money, she wants the car gone, yada yada yada. long story short, I have posted it to the local Craigslist to see what kind of offers I can get for the whole car (no time, space, or tools to part it out). Initially, I was going to find another W123 and use this one for a donor. Needless to say, that option has not worked out thus far.
my grand scheme:
-sell the mercedes
Ok, I noticed a circular unit on top the fuel pump on my $175 '79 300D that had a vac. line that was disconnected. So, I hooked it up last night, but do not know its function; it is labeled as part #70 (here: http://home.comcast.net/~phantoms/vacuum/fuel_mixture_control.jpg) in the mixture control diagram. However, the diagram I have leaves out the description of what it is! I hooked it up and my son now says the car has less power than before. Note that mine does not have part #75, the nylon/plastic part vac. control valve shown in the mentioned diagram.