W123, Electrical

1983 TD broken material under front carpets?

After pulling up the front carpet pads up on my 1983 TD wagon, I found a layer of fractured/broken material between the carpet and the metal of the lower firewall. Outer material is hard and the inner layer is a black insulation/foam. I suppose since it's all broken and falling apart I have no choice but to remove it....I'm just wondering if this is normal on the TD, since I know my 240D has nothing like it, and what (if anything) it means that it has all broken apart?
Thanks!

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82, 240d flex coupler

I was checking out the alert section of this fantastic web site and one of the alerts was on the flex couplers on the older high mileage cars. A week later mine went. I should of inspected them imediatly and saved some head aches. Luckily I do have a parts car which is a 1981 and the drive line appears to be in good shape. I have ordered new flex plates, the center bearing and associated rubber parts. Anything special I should look for when replacing the drive line. I'll let you know how it goes and what all the calateral damage is. Moral to the story read the alerts and act quickly.

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1981 240d oil burning

First off... Thanks so much for the easy to follow manual on changing valve guide seals. I finished that good little job about a week ago. I am trying to reduce oil consumption in my 240d. Much to my dismay, the old seals seemed to (to me) be in good condition. I have not noticed a reduction in oil use. My benz has 211,000 on the odo. What should be the next step in trying to kill this tapeworm? I am burning about 2 u.s. quarts per 300 miles. Car starts well and runs like a dream... Does not lose power going up hills and will easily cruise at 75 on the highway. I am perplexed.

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300D Rear Shock Installation - nuts stuck!

Hi Kent,

We attempted to install rear shocks today and when we came to the step of loosening the top of the shock with the two nuts (where you recommend a 17" ratcheting wrench), we're having trouble. The nuts are stuck and just spin together and holding the top stud with a wrench is causing the metal on the stud to round off the corners and not give. What do you suggest to get this to break free?

Thanks much,

Brook and Justin

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240D low compression in #1

I have a "rust bucket winter beater" 240D here in MT that starts great above 15 degrees F and really hard below (if at all). I ran diesel purge through the other night and did a compression check. All cylinders were 325-350 save #1 at 180. The valves were adjusted in September...but #1 on this 240D was the first valve I ever adjusted on this car (and it was hard to do, and hard to get the locking nuts tight.) Could I have screwed it up? The leakdown reading on #1 was 450...so methinks not valves...rings. How much compression can a bad valve adjustment lose?

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1983 300TD needs restarting for full power

Very often the motor starts but has low power, won't even rev up much. If I shut it off (often it takes two tries) and restart it it has full power. I have changed the filters, hand pump, changed the fuel tank screen and hose but it wasn't dirty) and blown out the fuel lines. Nothing helped. The problem seems to occur more often after I have driven, stopped a while and try to restart it. The problem suddenly appeared more than a year ago but has not gotten better or worse. I have asked all the local mercedes mechanics but no solution.

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1979 300D when to quit!

I have a 1979 300D with 300k+ miles. I had the intake and exhaust manifold off to install a new block heater. The intake ports were oil soaked, I know she's tired. I thought hey, I'll pull the head, do the valves and maybe throw some rings and bearings in while I'm in there... I stopped myself and thought I'd better see what this is going to cost. I can do the labor myself, so just need some parts. Well after putting together a parts list, I was looking at 2K plus machining if everything went well. SO HERE'S THE QUESTION, will I see more power in the old 300D after she has been overhauled?

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1984 300 TDT Fuse Blows - Eventually - Every Time

The fuse that controls the horns, ignition buzzer and backup lights on my 1984 300TDT Wagon always blows. Not immediately, but eventually. Cannot relate it to any action of mine. The backup lights were broken with loose connectors, rust and corrosion, so were replaced with new ones.

Should I check or disconnect the horns and see if that cures the problem? Any suggestion as to where to start?

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