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I am having a problem with the compressor and blower moter fuses. When I replace the white 8A compressor fuse it blows immediately up turning the ignition to on. The heater blower fuse blows also but it takes a little longer. Any ideas?
I have 1977 280e fuel injected gas engine. After many trials I have gotten it to the point that it will start and run...roughly. It back fires through the through the air cleaner when the throttle is stepped on. I have checked and the plug wiring is correct. If you slightly open the choke plate the engine evens out and runs smooth but still backfires when the throttle is cracked. I am thinking a possible vacuum problem exists although the power brakes seem to be great. Any thoughts would be great.
I replaced the starter about a month ago. The car started fine about a half dozen times and then stopped turning over altogether - not a sound when I turned the key after the glow plug light went off. Replaced the ignition switch yesterday after first having the starter tested to make sure it wasn't a dud (it wasn't). Started the car successfully five or six times without trouble, but am now having the same problem I had before: nothing when I turn the key after the glow plug light turns off. Any idea what's going on? I'm at a loss.
Hi all,
I've got a 1979 300TD non-turbo that isn't shifting correctly. I'd like to start out with the vaccum system, but can't seem to come up with a schematic.
I've got Kent's transmission tuning manual, but the transmission in the 1979 wagon looks to be different than any of those explicitly described in the manual, and the vacuum schematics in the appendix don't seem to match either.
I've got two questions:
What is (and how do I test) the item labeled "B" in this picture? (I assume it's the VCV)
This 300TD-T has been running on Veg for about 3 years and 12k miles, I have owned it about 5 months. The rebuilt engine has 50k miles in it. Starting two weeks ago, the wife noticed a subtle power loss on hills and more white smoke than usual (this car has burned very clean except at start up). I drove the car last week, and tested it on a few residential hills in the neighborhood. At idle, the engine revs well…on the flats power is OK, but definitely not as strong as a few weeks ago… going up steep hills is impossible.
In doing some routine maintenance on our recently acquired 300TD-T I came across what has been called the "switch over valve" attached to the fire wall, next to brake booster. Both the vacuum line from the turbo and the alda have been disconnected and a short piece of hose connects the two.... a bypass. I understand that this can damage the engine. Is there any test to see if this valve still works before I reassemble the correct way?
Thanks is advance.
Steve
I put new glow plugs, new batt,new relay, new strap fuse on my 123. Key turns it over but indicator light doesn't go on sometimes. Before I replace the ignition switch, should I first check the trans solenoid and neutral safety switch? Thanks
I have now tried to install two sending units with matching numbers in my 85 wagon, but they have both been about 1/4 inch too long. Was there more than one tank, one that was not as shallow as the other, available? It appeared as if one of the previous owners bent the tube on the old one to fit, so it would not hit the bottom of the tank. Can the sending unit be modified slightly to fit?