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well i'm almost at my wits end with this thing - certainly at my wallets end. Can anyone tip me toward an easy way to get the hood up after the brilliantly designed plastic latch that you pull between the grill breaks? I'm sure i can spend half the day coming up with something but if there are any quick ideas out there i'd love to hear them. Thanks in advance.
I'm not asking for help...just making an observation...have a '77 240D and a '79 300D acquired this summer here in 40 below possible Montana (where even treated dirtydiesel won't fly)...The 240D worked great until the cold morning start was sub 14 degrees F! 300D worked fine...Diagnosed issue and couldn't believe the 240s glow plugs were shot (all 4)! I thought they couldn't start at all w/o glow plugs??? On the 240, we thought it was our biodiesel...but it must have been the glow plugs as the 300 had the same fuel and started right up. These cars are amazing!
I've had my 300TD for two years now. Between my initial pre-purchase test drive and picking up the new car, the battery went dead and wouldn't take a charge. The original owner put in a new Mercedes Benz battery. A year later, that battery went dead and wouldn't take a charge. I bought an Autozone 49-DL battery (same size and amp/hours as original). A year later, it is dead and won't take a charge. I've been trying to charge it with the battery disconnected from the car and it charges endlessly. Any idea what causes this or where to start troubleshooting?
I think my neutral saftey switch may be going bad, as the starter is having trouble engaging at times. Can you tell me where it is located and is there a way to test it? Thanks. DJ
I just purchased an 82 300d turbo. I changed the oil and drove it 60 miles. Checked the level at my destination topped it up (less than 1/2 a quart) drove home. 3 miles from home the oil pressure plummeted STOP! Oil all over. dipstick not entirely seated in its tube. Added four quarts to get level back on the dipstick. What the bleep! Today I hooked a hose up to the dipstick tube and put the other end in a plastic container. Sure enough filled up half a quart of oil in about 20 minutes.
My idle cable knob recently broke. The main part that is actually grabbed and turned snapped off, but the very base is still attatched. I was just wondering if anyone had some information on how to replace this part. I bought the actual knob to be replaced, just don't know how.
I'm looking at cobbling together an engine and tranny, a car with a blown engine, and a car with a wasted tranny..
The problem is.. The car with the wasted tranny (300SD) is in Arizona.. The car with the wasted engine (300Dt) is in Missouri, and the available donor engine transmission is in Michigan..
..Oh, and I'm in Ohio, closest to the engine/tranny, but even that's 70 miles from me.
Hello
I have single tank conversion that dies at idle in loop mode but runs fine when under acceleration.
After it dies I have to switch the valve to return and purge the system of what seems to be air then I'm fine until the next time I let it warm up at idle. It doesn't have this problem when the valve is on return. I thought it might be a filter issue but I have no loss of power when going down the road.
Thank you this forum has been a big help.
Rob
On average how many miles should I be getting before an fm-100 filter change ?
Thanks
Rob
I am having problems getting my WVO system to work. It has worked well for over a year (20,000 miles!), but now only works on diesel. I've traced everything out and found that the booster pump (FRB5) back at the rear tank won't pump WVO. It pumps diesel at 10 gpm but only pumps WVO at about 2 gpm. I replaced the pump with a new pump and it works identically. I removed the pump and tested it on my bench with short hose lengths with clean WVO and diesel running directly off of a battery and it is still the same.