JUST ARRIVED! German-made diesel fuel injector nozzles are back! CLICK HERE to order.
I have the new 617 Turbo Rack Damper and instructions, ready to replace the old one.
Before I start, it looks VERY tight in there!
Do I have to remove the oil filter housing to do this?
No mention of this in instructions, but I've read elsewhere that it is necessary. Thanks.
I am now the second owner of a beautifully maintained 1985 300SD. However, I would like to change out the 14" Bundt Alloys with a 15" Mercedes wheel. I prefer the 8 slot chrome wheels I see on 190s and w201s. The problem is this, I cannot find a straight answer on the Benz forums if there are any stock 15" Mercedes that will "bolt" on correctly in relation to offset size.
Any insight would be appreciated.
Mark L
Dallas, TX
I have driven 8000+ miles in my 300SDL on Ken's dual tank WVO system. I
have had no performance problems from ambient temperatures from 17 degrees F
up to 90 degrees F. I added a CoPilot and accompanying switches from
Greasecar to help control my fuel tank source switches, etc. The CoPilot
comes with a fuel line and coolant line thermometer. I have noted that
Ken's system seems to heat up the oil about 65-70 degrees over ambient
temps. thus, if it is 35 degrees outside, my WVO after my final glow plug
heater and before my lift pump is about 105 degrees.
My research suggests that 150-160 degrees is good, but 250 degrees is even
better.
Even though i have noted no degradation in performance at 105 degrees, i was
The odometer sticks at xx9.9...eventually turning again but sticking long enough to make the trip meter useless. It must have been going on for a long time...total miles are under 80K. Something needs some grease?
After a cold night(I forgot to plug in the heater), the engine will crank
but not start. Replaced fuel filters, tried Diesel purge from bottle, even
starter fluid. Nothing worked.......any ideas.
Glow plugs, alternator, battery, valve adj. in last yr. Timing chain replaced
at 130K. Car now has 340K. Compression check @ 290K: 340,350,400,360,380.
It was the uplift pump.
When the body shop repaired my 300SD, they nor I knew about the hood cable adjustment. It was FULL TIGHT and just snapped the other day. I got hold of the cable by reaching into the slot above the driver side headlight...the cable is disconnected from the release "latch" on that side. I can easily pull it and release the passenger side latch, but that does NOTHING for the driver side hood latch. How can I get to the hood latch on the driver's side? What do I have to do to release it? The front end is pretty much all new, but not everything is a real factory fit.
Interesting set of events this weekend: car would not start, clicking sound, so I jumped started the 300D and took it for a drive; when I returned, I shut off and tried to start again; nothing, so I tried to jump start again, nothing, only clicking sound.
I tested the fan blower, windshield wipers, radio, and electric windows, and all worked; however, when I turned the key to start, all lights on dash went off, and the clicking noise persisted until a few moments later; then lights came on but no start;