fuel sending unit removal for 82 300sd
Does anyone know how to remove the fuel gauge sending unit on an 82 300 sd. Thanks for any help.
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Does anyone know how to remove the fuel gauge sending unit on an 82 300 sd. Thanks for any help.
I just towed my 1984 300 Turbodiesel about 2 miles at 20 mph without the engine running - After I got the engine started again, the car would not shift into 2nd gear. Does it ruin a transmission to tow a model 123 without the engine running? It has been very cold out (7 degrees F) and perhaps something inside the transmission is stuck. Anybody with any ideas on what might be going on with this transmission after being towed for that distance and speed?
-Levon-
A Mechanic wants $1000 to install new axles in my 1985 300CD. This includes parts and labor. Is this reasonable? I have a 1979 or 1980 300CD parts car. Are these the same alxes? How difficult to do do the job myself? Can I use these axles? Are the 123's axles all interchangeable for these years?
I was troubleshooting my 300SD for low startup torque (I have already adjusted the valves, rebuilt the injectors, etc) then I went to the alda. I removed the banjo bolt from behind the turbo but it wasn't all that dirty. Then I removed the bolt from the side of my alda and engine oil started dripping out. I don't know much about this thing but I don't think this is right.
I saw one of these for sale on this site. Is this something a shadetree mechanic can change?
I recently purchased a 1984 300D Turbo diesel and it was running beautifully. Then I converted to bio diesel (changed the fuel lines) and ever since I have been having issues.
My 1984 300sd will keep running after the key is out of the ignition. I do have a new shutoff valve to replace, but have not gotten to it.
Well, I figured out why the engine cuts off some times before I get the hood up. When I'm getting out of the vehicle I tapped the brake and it killed the engine. I do this with regularity now. Has anybody heard of this? And if so, is it still my "shutoff valve" or a vacuuum booster to the brakes?
I've followed along numerous posts on this subject and followed instructions where I could, but my car is still a DOG.
I have performed all of these fixes yet not realized much difference:
-Cleaned banjo bolt
-Replaced air/fuel filters (many times)
-StarBrite anti-fungus fuel additive
-Replaced some vacuum connectors (not the 3-ways, just the small pieces - I'm poor, but working on it)
-Replaced brake booster vacuum line - it had 2 broken nipples.
-Replaced vacuum switch levers (the two plastic things on top of the valve cover - whatever they're called)
Screaming sound coming from the dash which appears to be related to speedometer cable. Any suggestions on if it is worth trying to grease cable or replace? Is there a way to disconnect to stop noise?
I have a 1973 450SE with 100k miles and ever since I bought it (over two years ago) it has had a slight two or so second delay before engaging when I put it into reverse. This morning when I went to back out of my driveway, I was stuck in some snow so I figured I'd rock out of it. However, once it was clear my car was free, it was no longer engaging at all when put in reverse. The reverse lights still come on, the seat belt buzzer still lets me know if my belt is on while the engine is engaged, but it does not engage at all. There is no grinding and the fluid levels are within range.
Have 82 240D ST sedan and am looking for a reliable, inexpensive and certified classic MB mechanic in the area who might be able to repair my A/C system....have replaced condensor several times without luck...works for a day or so, and then konks out....no leaks evident...compressor appears to be working properly....just can't get it right.....thanks.