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I’m trying to identify the transmission model in an early production 1977 - 123 - 300D? The transmission has no vacuum lines running to it only electrical wiring (driver side) and a mechanical connection (passenger side). The car has been owned since new, so it’s the original transmission.
VIN# 123 130 12 019871
Eng# 617 912 12 006662
Trans# 123 270 0701 006832
This is a new one on me...I just bought another W123...and after the second real drive for any miles..I heard a noise in the back the sounded like a cable wrapping around something...then the right rear wheel locks up...then lets go. My kids were 15 miles behind me, so I pulled over. We assessed the situation and the noise was coming from the right back wheel....clank, creak, clank at slow speed. I thought it was a CV shaft falling apart or the parking brake drums, but it was from the wheel area. But, the rotor still looks good on the outside.
Anyone ever attempt such a feat? Looking for guidance and a punchlist of diesel bits to take off of the SD to put on the SE. Engine and Trans? Glowplug Relay? The 280SE has Euro climate control (no Klima I thank God!). Other stuff of note. Kent...Help!
Thanks!
Ben near Detroit
I was wondering what the best way to remove stock undercoating is for the at home mechanic?
Also, I seem to have a pretty large rust problem. I have Miracle Paint and would like to attack it from top and bottom but it seems like one of the screws holding down my passenger seat is rusted to the body. How do I get it out? Of course it's the right rear screw, the hardest to reach to begin with.
The transmission in my 1987 300TDT diesel wagon (W124) has always shifted a bit harshly, especially going from second to third gear, and from park to drive. After I installed new Monark injector nozzles, Beru glow plugs and cleaned out the oily gunk from the intake manifold, the transmission now shifts smoothly. It's like I installed a new transmission, but I didn't.
So which of these procedures (inadvertently) solved my clunky transmission? I'm sure it wasn't new glow plugs!
Yikes! I didn't realize the W123 uses DOT-4 and I've been using DOT-3. I have only topped off on DOT-3 (about two ounces, maybe 3 between two cars that were a little low), not bled and filled...so...the question...can I just bleed out and refill w/DOT-4? Or would it better to vac out the resovoir, put DOT-4 in and then bleed/refill. The brakes on one have been getting worse after sitting overnight...the first stop is an adventure if I forget to pump once before stopping (goes to nearly to floor).
Thanks a bunch.
I got $3K out of the insurance company and got to keep the car....though the title is now branded SALVAGE
After getting the settlement, we decided to get a minivan (gasp) for the wife. it is an older Honda Odyssey, and we got it for a great price. I now drive our '89 Volvo 245 and the Mercedes has been sitting in the driveway. Now, I need the money, she wants the car gone, yada yada yada. long story short, I have posted it to the local Craigslist to see what kind of offers I can get for the whole car (no time, space, or tools to part it out). Initially, I was going to find another W123 and use this one for a donor. Needless to say, that option has not worked out thus far.
my grand scheme:
-sell the mercedes
I noticed, recently, that there was what sounded like an exhaust leak in the engine compartment of my 1990 300D 2.5 turbo. In checking further, I found that the noise was on the intake side of the engine not the exhaust side. Checking further, I found that puffs of air(?) were coming out of a small half-moon shaped hole on the rim of the injection port of the last fuel injector (closest to the firewall). I bought your injector rebuild/test kit (monarch nozzles) and rebuilt all of the injectors and reinstalled them.
116 how do you remove window regulator from driver's door 1979 300sd ?