84 sd greenwire removal
ive got the cluster pulled on my 84 sd except the green wire with a black screw off cap in the middle of the cluster. what does it do and how do i remove it i dont like my cluster to dangle
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ive got the cluster pulled on my 84 sd except the green wire with a black screw off cap in the middle of the cluster. what does it do and how do i remove it i dont like my cluster to dangle
Changed my valve guide seals using your kit about a week ago. Very good information provided in the book. Thanks.
I have not seen a reduction in oil consumption and still have a good bit of smoke at start up. My car is burning approx. 2 quarts per 300 miles. 211,000 on the clock. Runs great, seems to have full power and starts up every morning. What should be my next step in reducing the amount of oil being burned? (I have no leaks) I am using delo 400 15/40 or rotella 15/40.
Any advice would be appreciated... thank you.
After pulling up the front carpet pads up on my 1983 TD wagon, I found a layer of fractured/broken material between the carpet and the metal of the lower firewall. Outer material is hard and the inner layer is a black insulation/foam. I suppose since it's all broken and falling apart I have no choice but to remove it....I'm just wondering if this is normal on the TD, since I know my 240D has nothing like it, and what (if anything) it means that it has all broken apart?
Thanks!
I was checking out the alert section of this fantastic web site and one of the alerts was on the flex couplers on the older high mileage cars. A week later mine went. I should of inspected them imediatly and saved some head aches. Luckily I do have a parts car which is a 1981 and the drive line appears to be in good shape. I have ordered new flex plates, the center bearing and associated rubber parts. Anything special I should look for when replacing the drive line. I'll let you know how it goes and what all the calateral damage is. Moral to the story read the alerts and act quickly.
First off... Thanks so much for the easy to follow manual on changing valve guide seals. I finished that good little job about a week ago. I am trying to reduce oil consumption in my 240d. Much to my dismay, the old seals seemed to (to me) be in good condition. I have not noticed a reduction in oil use. My benz has 211,000 on the odo. What should be the next step in trying to kill this tapeworm? I am burning about 2 u.s. quarts per 300 miles. Car starts well and runs like a dream... Does not lose power going up hills and will easily cruise at 75 on the highway. I am perplexed.
I just bought a 1987 300TDT wagon. 207k Rear suspension makes a sqeaking sound when I push down on the rear bumper. No leaks on the ground from the hydrolic suspension. Some oil weaping on the rear shocks. Any ideas? lube something?
Also, does this 6 diesel need a valve adjustment like the 123?
I am looking for a hood latch assembly for a w140 1993 300 SD with 245k
runs good but i think the previous owner snapped a piece of it off and just made a hole in the remaining part of the assembly and used a wire hook to open the hood. looks really bad. i brought the latch strap thinking it was missing then when i looked at it closer a whole chunk was missing. any leads would be helpful.
thanks,
Jay
Hi Kent,
We attempted to install rear shocks today and when we came to the step of loosening the top of the shock with the two nuts (where you recommend a 17" ratcheting wrench), we're having trouble. The nuts are stuck and just spin together and holding the top stud with a wrench is causing the metal on the stud to round off the corners and not give. What do you suggest to get this to break free?
Thanks much,
Brook and Justin
how do i go about greasing my antenna on the 300 sd?and im also looking for a new seal that goes around the base of the antenna mines missing and waters getting in my trunk my antenna works so id rather not have to replace my whole antenna to get a seal though i feel a good greasing wouldnt hurt it any thanks
I have a "rust bucket winter beater" 240D here in MT that starts great above 15 degrees F and really hard below (if at all). I ran diesel purge through the other night and did a compression check. All cylinders were 325-350 save #1 at 180. The valves were adjusted in September...but #1 on this 240D was the first valve I ever adjusted on this car (and it was hard to do, and hard to get the locking nuts tight.) Could I have screwed it up? The leakdown reading on #1 was 450...so methinks not valves...rings. How much compression can a bad valve adjustment lose?