Kent's Mercedes SL Roadster Collection for Sale! CLICK HERE to view all.
I have a 1982 Mercedes 300SD and the trim around the windows looks faded and ugly. It is as if they look like "hard" water stains on all the chrome door and truck trim. I have tried "windex" type cleaner to Bar Keeper's Friend to no avail.
Any tips on cleaning? Do not want to have the replace the trim.
Thanks
Jim
To do some repair work in the rear seat area I took out the rear seat belts. I am trying to put them back in but cannot get them to release. After I removed them they rolled up most of the way and they will not unroll far enough to reach all the attachment holes. The ones I am using are from a 1991 420SEL. What is the procedure to get them to release. Thank you.
Kent,
I just got an email from Kaia telling me I should direct my question/request to you on the forum.
I just replaced the rear pads on my 2002 E320 with 127k miles. 3 of the 4 pads little wear, 1 of the 4 worn down to 1/8 inch. I have a feeling the uneven wear is not normal. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. The 3 of 4 pads worn about the same.
Thanks.
In Kent's manual '61x Automatic Transmission Tuning', on page 17, there is a description of how to adjust the ALDA.
You show a wrench around the locking nut. On W126's at least, the locking nut is not exposed. I cut the plastic cap off, but there is a metal "collar" or cylinder surrounding the screw & nut. This cylinder appears integrated to the top part of the aneroid capsule body itself, with no obvious way to remove it. There is no mention of this in the instruction.
How do W126/OM617 owners get to the locking nut with this collar so close around it? I think this may be the cause of some reports of people breaking theirs (trying to adjust the screw without loosening the lock nut).
Also:
- must the car be off for the adjustment?
Any idea how hot this mite turn the filter onto. I was looking to purchase the old style copper wrap but I was informed they are no longer available.
Is it worthwile to attach the clear bowl to the bottom of the Fuel manager? I am figuring that by remounting the Manager on the flat plate a little higher I mite be able to mount the clear bowl on the bottom of the Fuel manager.
I am having a problem with the compressor and blower moter fuses. When I replace the white 8A compressor fuse it blows immediately up turning the ignition to on. The heater blower fuse blows also but it takes a little longer. Any ideas?
I have 1977 280e fuel injected gas engine. After many trials I have gotten it to the point that it will start and run...roughly. It back fires through the through the air cleaner when the throttle is stepped on. I have checked and the plug wiring is correct. If you slightly open the choke plate the engine evens out and runs smooth but still backfires when the throttle is cracked. I am thinking a possible vacuum problem exists although the power brakes seem to be great. Any thoughts would be great.
I replaced the starter about a month ago. The car started fine about a half dozen times and then stopped turning over altogether - not a sound when I turned the key after the glow plug light went off. Replaced the ignition switch yesterday after first having the starter tested to make sure it wasn't a dud (it wasn't). Started the car successfully five or six times without trouble, but am now having the same problem I had before: nothing when I turn the key after the glow plug light turns off. Any idea what's going on? I'm at a loss.