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The driver's side tire of my wagon wears rapidly. I first noticed this not long after I purchased the car in 2008. Had it aligned and the shop said it really was not that far out of alignment. Since the tire continued to have the same wear pattern, the alignment job didn't fix the problem. Wondering where to start the hunt for the culprit. Control arms, bushings, etc. I've not done any work on the suspension of any car, so have no ideas here. Thanks, George
Just bought a one-owner '83 300D with 116k verified miles. Service book was regularly stamped. Car starts instantly, idles perfectly runs great. Has 2.5 bar oil pressure at idle. But it has a definite knock. Took it to the local independent MB repair facility. Diesel mechanic has three 300D's himself. I used my infrared remote thermometer and showed him that the injector body of #1 cylinder was showing just 120-degrees. Other four 170-175.
Injector was removed and replaced. Good compression--in the 300's. Haven't had chance to recheck temp. Knock is still there.
Now I am told it is most likely a rod knock! I don't have the money to start rebuilding the bottom end of this engine. Plus I am surprised that a rod bearing would go with this low mileage.
I have a 94 S350D with the 603.xxx engine. Is there a injection pump timing procedure for these models? I have a lot of the symptoms you describe for the older models.
P.S. Just rebuilt my injectors with your kit. It went flawlessly. Your kit and instructions were fantastic.
Jay
I followed Kent's instructions the best I could in his Vacuum Diagnostic manual. Here is what I did and what readings I got: following the main black plastic line to the firewall, there are several lines that split off. 5 in total, I believe. I unplugged the four smaller, colored lines and plugged them with golf tees. The remaining line is actually some sort of plastic housing unit with a curved rubber hose attached. I took my measurements from this point and with the engine on, I got a measurement of 10 psi from my mityvac. I think this means something is up with my vacuum pump, unless I performed my measurements incorrectly.
I have an idle problem that will rise and then drop to a lower RPM when cold. After the engine warms up, the problem is gone. What could be the most likely cause?
What's a good process to remove diesel fuel and oil from the engine and engine parts including rubber parts like rubber mounts.
Is there a trick to removing the front ABS sensors for cleaning other than removing the single bolt? The sensors do not readily come out and I don't want to apply pressure and break them.
Kent,
I have read your manual for the replacement of the steering lock + tumbler and purchased all the parts I need. I have a steering lock from a very well maintained 91 420SEL. Can I use the alarm buzzer from that one for the steering lock of the 83 300SD? It is different in that it allows for one more plug than the one on the 300SD - but the other plug looks the same.
Thank you
Dieter
I have replaced all filters, including the one in the tank and all looked clean. I am still experiencing loss of power and then stalling as if a filter is clogged. When pumping the manual pump attached to the injection pump, it does not have pressure. It's like there is an airlock, but engine will start. I also checked the tank and it is vented. Any ideas? Thanks.
Help! The tailgate on my 1984 300 TD will not unlatch. It won't open from the inside or the outside. Lock button pushes in... nothing. Lift the inside lever up... nothing. Unfortunately, I'm not sure it's actually "unlocked" as that whole emchanism feels wrong when trying to unlock with key. Is there a way to bypass everything and at least get it to open so it can be worked on?