BENZ AID - COMMON QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

how hot is too hot?

I have driven 8000+ miles in my 300SDL on Ken's dual tank WVO system. I
have had no performance problems from ambient temperatures from 17 degrees F
up to 90 degrees F. I added a CoPilot and accompanying switches from
Greasecar to help control my fuel tank source switches, etc. The CoPilot
comes with a fuel line and coolant line thermometer. I have noted that
Ken's system seems to heat up the oil about 65-70 degrees over ambient
temps. thus, if it is 35 degrees outside, my WVO after my final glow plug
heater and before my lift pump is about 105 degrees.

My research suggests that 150-160 degrees is good, but 250 degrees is even
better.

Even though i have noted no degradation in performance at 105 degrees, i was

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1980 300TD will not start

After a cold night(I forgot to plug in the heater), the engine will crank
but not start. Replaced fuel filters, tried Diesel purge from bottle, even
starter fluid. Nothing worked.......any ideas.

Glow plugs, alternator, battery, valve adj. in last yr. Timing chain replaced
at 130K. Car now has 340K. Compression check @ 290K: 340,350,400,360,380.

It was the uplift pump.

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1985 300SD Cable Broke - How Open Hood?

When the body shop repaired my 300SD, they nor I knew about the hood cable adjustment. It was FULL TIGHT and just snapped the other day. I got hold of the cable by reaching into the slot above the driver side headlight...the cable is disconnected from the release "latch" on that side. I can easily pull it and release the passenger side latch, but that does NOTHING for the driver side hood latch. How can I get to the hood latch on the driver's side? What do I have to do to release it? The front end is pretty much all new, but not everything is a real factory fit.

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1982 300D Failing to start, dash lights dim and clicking sound

Interesting set of events this weekend: car would not start, clicking sound, so I jumped started the 300D and took it for a drive; when I returned, I shut off and tried to start again; nothing, so I tried to jump start again, nothing, only clicking sound.

I tested the fan blower, windshield wipers, radio, and electric windows, and all worked; however, when I turned the key to start, all lights on dash went off, and the clicking noise persisted until a few moments later; then lights came on but no start;

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92 300CE Numerous electrical problems

My 92 300CE has several electrical issues that I think are related. First my left tailight and park lights stopped working. After several months my headlights and flashers started to blink everytime I open my door, at times will driving and when I turn the car off. It seems that the alarm system is envolved because after approx. 105 seconds after getting out and locking the door the blinking stops. And also now my sunroof tilts open without me doing it sometime during that period. Are there any suggetions on the cause or causes and corrective action I can take.

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1978 300D AC belts missing

Test drove the subject vehicle today. Looking into the engine compartment, noticed the AC belt or belts were missing. Owner says, previous owner removed them during the winter and never replaced them.

In my quest to own an 300D, just about every 300D/240D I have checked into - the AC is inoperative. Why is this just about always the case? Why are the belts missing... Is this an expensive repair or just a recharge?

Thanks again.

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1984 330D New Monarks

Hi all at Mercedessource and forum. I put the Monark injectors in "Old Yella today. The instructions were great as usual and every thing went smooth. I had one minor disappointment and one question and would like a little advice on both. First the disappointment: You know how you get a little diesel fuel around the pre-chamber and the wells that the injectors sit in as you expell the air from the hard lines with the nuts cracked a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn? Okay, well I did everything to a tee. I torqued all the injectors at 59 ft/lbs.

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