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300td rear suspension very bouncy.
I have rebuilt the self levering valve and it seems to be working fine. I bought a set of used actuator balls from you and installed them. It might be my imagination but that seemed to help for a while but now Im back to the bouncing around when I go over any dips or bumps.
When I start the car it raises up a little and when I carry a load it also raises up. Any suggestions.
Thanks
Rob
Hi there Forum Fiends, I'm helping a friend try and troubleshoot an issue he's been having with his '84 300D-T losing power while running biodiesel versus petrodiesel. The biodiesel is good quality ASTM-certified commercial stock, so I don't think fuel quality is the issue... A mechanic wanted several hundred bucks to open it up and diagnose! I'm thinking it can't be that complicated... Can it? Does anyone have any theories as to why this would occur?
Is the injector fuel spray setting different for veggie oil vs diesel?
I have one bad injector, it's leaking, that I need to replace. If the setting is different for veggie I need to let my mechanic know. He uses Bosch injectors, which is what is in my car for three years now since I installed the Elsbett system. (mercedessource came out with their veggie kit within months after I installed the Elsbett).
Thanks,
Keith
Hello - I have a 1975 300D with an A/C system that doesn't work (and I don't need anyways). I want to remove the A/C compressor because it gets in the way of reaching the alternator. I run Veg and am considering putting a diesel start up tank (fuel cell) in it's place since there is lots of room on that side of the engine and it would be easier than putting a tank in the trunk and running hoses all the way to it (if the york A/C compressor wasn't there there is plenty of room) So . . .
Hi all. Getting reay to adjust the valves for the first time and I am going to take pictures of the linkage and everything else to make sure it goes back the same way. Does anyone know the easiest and most efficient method to getting the linkage out of the way yet keep most of it together to minimize the work.
Recently,
My car has been acting funny. It will only start if I give it gas and it won't idle to save it's life, I have to keep my foot on the gas at stop lights.
I replaced the stock fuel filter, air filter etc. I've read that it could be the ovp, but the socket is empty in my fuse box and I can't find anything that resembles it anywhere else. My dash lights (Brake warning etc) do come on at idle until I give it some gas.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Vince
I just bought a 1984 300D Turbo Diesel with 204,000 miles and it ran great on the 700+ mile drive home getting 25 MPG with lots of power. The injector return lines were leaking a little so I got the Bio hose kit from Mercedessource and installed it last weekend. I pulled all 5 injectors out (keeping them in order) to get the old lines off (they all broke when I pulled on them) and put everything back together per instructions, but minus new heat shields. I now have the following problems that were not present before.
I read somewhere recently that one or more very new diesel passenger cars have a system which applies heat to the fuel just before it enters the injectors,
After replacing the heater fan with a new Bosch unit, I seem to be having the 16 amp fuse blow on a regular basis. The fan I replaced still ran but was noisy and didn't blow the fuse. Any suggestions?
Hi all. I just installed new Bilsteins all the way around and the difference in the ride is noticeable. As I was on my back (driveway project as Mercedessource calls it) putting the driver's side rear shock in, I noticed a little bell-shaped part with a small fuel line or hose connected to it. It is located just in front of the rear wheel attached to under-chassie and in from the rocker panel. I really didn't bother tracing where the hose led to or came from and I don't know if there is one on the other side. My only guess is a vent for the fuel system.