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recently i was having problems with heat coming on when ac should have,mostly heat.ac works well.changed monovalve from mercedessource though old one was good,no change.got a used solenoid from mercedessource and then i only got cold,minimal heat.unplugged monovalve still cold even in defrost.whats the next step.aux pump??
Anyone have a cure for a sun visor slipping down? Slips down only about an inch and a half and if I push it back up it stays up only fro a few minutes and then slips down again. Any tips would be appreciated - hgb
Today I shut the door on my 300SD with the window down for the first time, and wouldn't you know it, now it gets stuck about half way up. I pulled the door assembly off but can not figure out how to get the window back in the track, it is the leading edge (towards the front of the car) that has jumped the track. Does anyone have some advice, or a direction I can look to get my window back where it belongs? Thank you in advance for your attention to my problem.
Brad
i have a 1983 Mercedes 300td. my problem lies between hood and the bracket under hood. they have come apart. it is part of the hood its self. it is stamped sheet metal part that is suppose to be solidly attached. it looks like it is suppost to be a stiffening bracket what would be a good adhesive to get it to be glued solidly so it stops rattling and is firmly attached?
n/a 1983 300SD passenger seat switch, the pin that controls the seat back broke off. The switch is hard wired and can not be removed by unpluging like the drivers switch can. I have opened up and replaced parts in the removable switches, but I am afraid to open this switch because I do not know what will happen when I pop the cover off, as I can not lay it on its back. Any Ideas or help are welcome.
Car came with badly damaged trunk lock - vacuum system not working so previous owner bashed open the lock with a hammer and screwdriver!?! Anyway, anyone know where I can get a replacement lock with a key before I start searching salvage yards?
This seems to be an overly common problem on the 123 chassis, yet I can't seem to find anyone else talking about it.
The interior color-coded plastic surrounds for the doors and hatch are all warped and buckled. Seems like every 123 I've seen that wasn't always garage kept has this problem.
My question is, what do most folks do about it? Rip it all off and leave the painted metal showing?
I just bought a new heater motor because my old one would blow the fuse contuinually. Sometimes instantly, or sometimes after 20 minutes. I took it to an electric motor shop and he pointed out how it was bad- the bearing were shot, which I wasn't suprised because it had been squealing awfully since I owned the car. However, after installing the new heater motor on monday, I went out today to find that the fuse was blown. What could be causing this? It's blowing the #8 fuse (16amp) and the White AC Crossover Idle stabilization one. Is the aux pump on this?
I recently replaced the line that runs from the temperature sensor on the dash to the blower motor. The foam portion of the line behind the glove compartment had disintegrated. It was probably like this for many years. The blower motor or some other part of the blower is very noisy now. Any recommendations to quiet it down would be greatly appreciated.
I have a crack running all the way across the glass. I was lucky enough to find and 84 300sd at a local junkyard with a perfect windshield in it. They said they would remove it and reinstall it in mine for a reasonable price. An hour later they called back to tell me that they couldn't remove it without a special tool or they would break it. I haven't been able to find any literature on the subject and much less a special tool. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. I have never replaced a windshield on any vehicle, but I am confident I can given the right information.